Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

Tamper-resistant receptacles can make it difficult to insert a plug. Here are the code-acceptable solutions.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
personally, I prefer a sill, and oftimes, no apron....
Typically I'd keep the sill and apron so these windows will match the other double hungs in the house.
How you merge the wain. and window trim will make a big difference in the final appearance.
Does the paneling get a chair rail? How thick is the rail, the panel, the window trim? All these come into play when choosing how to cleanly trim out something like this.
Do you want a wider sill for plants. Deeper jambs to mount interior shutters etc.
Or are you trying to leave the existing trim in place as much as possible? buic
"Does the paneling get a chair rail? How thick is the rail, the panel, the window trim? All these come into play when choosing how to cleanly trim out something like this. Or are you trying to leave the existing trim in place as much as possible? buic"
It appears I left out some of the important factors...
3/4" chair rail with panel mould on top
Existing colonial casing on windows
In order to combine the two harmoniously a 1 3/8" back band will be added to the casing. The sills (if they stay) will be redone to fit the new moulding.
Sounds like you already have a handle on it, using a modest chair rail, with a back band to cover the seam between the wain. and the casing.
The rail should butt into the band nicely.
As cim said in his post, I'd remove the apron, cut out the back of the ears on the sill to let the panel slip behind, apply new apron, back band, then chair rail.
Should look nice and clean when you're done...buic
I just did a similar job but with a regular flat panel design. The windows had regular colonial casing so I couldnt use regular one by material. I got some sheets of half inch MDF and ripped it down to the widths I needed. When I got to the window wall I simply removed the apron, sawed and chiseled out the back of the stool return just enough to slide the half inch MDF by and another piece of MDF under the stool and the re-applied the apron on top of that. The result was a clean look and anywhere the wainscot encountered casings using the half inch MDF gave me a suitable reveal. Baseboard was just returned on its self at point of door casings. Hope this helps.