I think I got this right, but would appreciate confirming input before powering up.
I’m wiring a pressure tank/submersible pump (first time). I’ve got the two hots, red and black, coming from a disconnect into the pressure switch. The switch terminals are labeled “L1” and “T1” on one side, and “L2” and “T2” on the other side. I’ve connected the black from the disconnect to “L1”, and red from the disconnect to “T1”. Continuing on to the control box, black from “L2”, and red from “T2”. The green EGC wires, of course, are connected to the two green screws in the pressure switch chassis. Is this correct?
In the control box, does it matter which hots go to which terminals on the line side?
On to the pump from the control box, it’s straight-forward yellow, black, red, and EGC. I will be making those connections in a junction box which has red, black, WHITE, and EGC run from the pump. Can I safely assume the white gets the yellow from the control box…or should I double-check with the well driller who wired the pump during install while I wasn’t there?
Replies
It has been a while since I looked at a pressure switch so I won't guantee my answer, but I am fairly certain that you want to wire from the disconnect to L1 and L2 (line) and from T1 and T2 to the pump control.
Verify it with an ohm meter or continuity tester.
If the switch is anything like the one that last used you can visually see which contacts connected to which terminals.
I am not familar with submersible pumps but there are two types. One with the starting cap on the motor and it only requires 2 wires (plus ground) and with with an external capacitor. You had better check with the driller or check the manufacture. They probably have installing info online.
Thanks for your response....It's pretty clear now that I think about it that the L side would take the hots from the disco and the T would go to the controller. The whole set up is in a crawl space and I didn't notice the T and L markings until I looked real close with a trouble light. The way I wired it is logical, to my eyes, and the markings are really small.
This pump has the capacitor start, and all that equipment is in the control box, which is mounted and ready for wire. Has much better marked terminals.
johnny,
Bill said it all about the contacts in the pressure switch. You can see what's going to happen when the relay throws/engages.
Here's a link that should answer your questions......presuming the driller wired as per normal.
http://www.pumpworld.net/prod01.htm