Replies

1. 
   DanH | May 09, 2011 09:07pm | #1

   What sort of GFCI protection are you planning?

2. 
   Scott | May 10, 2011 12:43am | #2

   Zackly what Dan asked.

   12/3 sounds fine. As for  protection, you could use BX (aromored) wire; or just slip flex armor over NMD where mechanical injury is a concern. (Don't forget your anti-short bushings at box connections)

1. 
   DanH | May 10, 2011 07:39am | #3

   For outdoors it seems like it would be better to use UF.

1. 
   Scott | May 10, 2011 01:41pm | #4

   Yeah, I suppose. Seems like

   Yeah, I agree. Seems like he's mostly concerned about mechanical injury, but there could be moisture issues too, so I'd agree that UL + Flex would be the ultimate solution.

3. 
   FR | May 10, 2011 08:50pm | #5

   Perfect - Thanks

   Guys,

   Perfect.  I'll use UF in the flex.   None of the appliances are hardwired, so I was just going to use GFCI receptacles all around because they are all accessible (through the access doors) and I don't want anyone trying to get to the breaker panel to reset a GFI breaker.   I realize a small fridge will be on the GFI circuit -which is not the best for false trips -- but it is outdoors so I need the protection. 

   Thanks again everyone. 

1. 
   DanH | May 10, 2011 09:50pm | #6

   It would be nice if someone would chime in with any specific code requirements for such a layout.  (My code book is about 25 years old and so out of date I won't even bother checking it.)  At the very least you should make sure any metal framing or other major metal structure is well-grounded.

1. 
   gfretwell | May 10, 2011 11:08pm | #7

   The code issues are pretty easy. He needs GFCI protected receptacles that are weather resistant, in use covers and the wire needs to be wet location rated. I think I would use 3/4" PVC (rigid) conduit to protect the wire and pull THWN. That gives you flexibility if you need something else later. It might be best to come up into a 4x4 J box inside the island and use dead front GFCIs in there so they are out of the weather and tail your receptacles off if them.

   Help yourself and stop using the "K" word. This is a wet bar, not a kitchen. Then you can use one of the circuis for lights.

   A kitchen requires 2 dedicated circuits serving the countertop but you could pick up a fridge and a stove igniter, just no lights.

1. 
   Scott | May 12, 2011 11:43pm | #8

   >>>This is a wet bar, not a

   >>>This is a wet bar, not a kitchen.

   Hahaha....good idea. Heck, call it a culinary arts studio.

4. 
   FR | May 15, 2011 09:51pm | #9

   Thanks and one last question

   Dan,

   Thanks.  Your plan sounds perfect.   (Junction box to PVC conduit).   One last question.  The framing directly under/around the grill is metal -- the rest is PT lumber.   Do I need to ground the framing under the grill or is that overkill if all of the receptacles/appliances are properly grounded?  If so,  can I just attach a metal box to part of the steel frame and ground the box?Any thoughts?  

   Thanks Dan. 

   FR

5. 
   JAJW | Apr 28, 2021 11:17am | #10

   Hello,

   I am building a outdoor kitchen island with metal studs. My question is a 2 part electrical one. I had some 12/2 UF-B wire left over that I am using. It will be wired to a 40 amp GFCI subpanel. The attached photo shows how I am running the wire, is this OK? If this works, what kind of electrical boxes will I need? Can I just use plastic one? I see a lot of videos that they just use MC and metal boxes for out door islands.

   Thanks