I just started a job on a multi-million dollar timberframe house two weeks ago, and was flipping a piece of plywood to rip and “ding!” , hit one of the PINE timberframe rafters!
I have gotten the dings out of cedar before by spitting on it and rubbing it in, allowing the wood to swell, but this is a harder wood, and has tung oil on it.
I would really like to make this right, as it is the only ding in the whole house, and I am the new guy…
Any help is appreciated. Thanx, Aeriq
Does drilling new screws into the roof rafters compromise the strength of the roof?
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Replies
Water and clothes iron. Cover the ding with a wet clotn and use the iron to steam it out.
I agree, but I use an old style hand held soldering iron. The kind you have to heat with a torch.
Tried a soldering iron, got too hot.
The clothes iron steam feature is an added plus.
Should have added reoil a few daws latter to my first post..
and only use a damp, cotton, turkish thickness towel. EliphIno!
Good to know about the regular steam iron. When I have used the old soldering iron, instead of a wet cloth I've always used a wet paper towel, which I didn't mention. I've used this method for years with great success, I'm some what surprised you had trouble, sorry about that.
The regular steam iron trick will be one I'll use next time, thanks for the update.
I used a seamers iron. It was just too hot and the heat was too localized / concetrated... Spot tanned some nice Beech cabinates.
I said for the cloth to be wet but not soaking wet. Watch out for dyes in the cloth, they can transmit to the wood.
As I said I've used the soldering iron for a long time, however, mostly on oak, maple and some soft woods. I'm still surprised by you're result, because I've had good luck. As I said I do use a wet paper towel not real cloth.
At any rate I'm trying your system next time around.
Should have asked.. Ding, divotted or crushed in spot?
If it's pretty deep do your "ding" removal in lifts. Take your time. If you rush it the wood fibers will seperate. Keep in mind that you can end up with a bump if you over do it. When you take the heat source off the wood it will continue to swell a little bit on it's own.
It was a crush with a bit of splintering - unfortunately on a corner where it is pretty visible. Luckily, because the wood densities were comparable, it isn't too deep. I think the iron/towel trick will do the job nicely. Thank you all for your suggestions.