I have a customer that has asked me to make a coat rack out of a 1×6 maple board with 1 inch dowels for the coat hooks at about a 30 degree angle up.
What is the best way to attach the angled dowels to the board?
I have tried boaring throught the board with a 1 inch forsner bit and an angled drill guide, but the hole is slightly loose and I am not sure how to attach them so that they have a consistent angle.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Brad
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Replies
try using the set up you have, saw a bandsaw kerf in the dowel, and use a wedge (from the back) to tighten the dowel in the hole - (use glue also)
gorilla glue would be a good glue to use there, eh?Sparingly, of course.
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how does the gorilla glue perform at the SAE/metric interface?
"there's enough for everyone"
depends whether you tilt the bottle exactly 30°;)
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In the event that this was possibly a semi-serious Q, the gorilla glue expands as it cures to fill minor gaps
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Rip another board at a 30° angle and temporarily, but securely, attach it to the front of the maple board. Now you can drill a perpendicular hole through both boards and have a 30° angle in the maple board when you take it apart.
With the right bit and dowel, the fit should be snug enough for glue to secure the dowel. Push the dowel all the way through and trim the back of it after the glue sets up.
-Don
I knindof took that to be what he meant when he said angled drill guide. Maybe he has something else that allows too much wiggle-wobble (tecchnical term) in the bit.I would prefer to use the drill press with the table canted at 30° and clamop the piece tighyt, but for on the job, the block of wood is the answer.
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Thanks for the insights. I think a small wedge might be the answer because the drill guide is clamped to the piece so that it cannot move on me. Would it possibly be better to run a pilot hole at the correct angle and simply screw the dowel to the face of the board?
Brad
I can picture too many other complications with that method.
First, the screw has to be strong enough to handle any weight placed on that dowel. That requires a structural screw not a SR screw. It must be about a #10 or 12 size so you would have to accurately predrill both the backer board and the dowel in alighment, or the screw - as it draws the dowel in tight will cause it to slide down the face of that backer. What I have done is to predril for the dowel partway into the backer, then dril a screw size through the rest of the way. Then place the dowel in the hole and from the back drill into the dowel. Now you can add the glue and run the screw in from the back. The hole supports and aligns the dowel, the glue makes it strong, and the screw helps keep it secure while the glue sets up.Good luck
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Piffin-
Thank you very much for your suggestion. I will give that a try. I also had a number of reservations about simply screwing the dowel from behind.
Brad
Possible that your dowels are undersized, fairly common with the cheap stuff out there. See http://www.leevalley.com item# 41K67.01 for accurately-sized maple dowels.
But yeah, I'd rather go with a shaker peg, for instance item# 41K25.10
Regards,
Tim Ruttan
Thanks guys.
The problem I was having is that the drill guide has too much wiggle waggle (the techincal term) to make the hole how I need it. The direction of the angle means that I cannot do it on my drill press, without fabricating a jig of some sort, because the column would be in the way. With the shaker pegs I can do this right on my drill press.
The shaker pegs seem like an excellent solution to the problem.
Thank you
Brad
Do these dowels fit the hole snug if you drill in at right angles? If so, then the drilling technique is the problem. If the peg fits loose still, then you are using too large of a bit.
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Are you using maple dowels?
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Have you thought about using Shaker pegs instead of dowels?
With these, there is no need to angle -- just a straight-on cut will do.
http://tinyurl.com/26opxf
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I was going to suggest Shaker pegs too--much easier and looks nicer, IMO.
Edited 2/20/2007 12:42 pm ET by Danno
Malman,
My best results setting dowel pegs have been with using a tap and die set made for cutting wooden threads. Glue or no glue, depending on whether or not you want to remove the dowels. Fast and easy.
Go to http://www.garrettwade.com and in their search box type in "wood threaders".
You can also purchase a multi-sized set that requires a router. Check http://www.rockler.com or http://www.leevalley.com.