Replies

1. 
   stinger | Sep 17, 2005 03:41am | #1

   I have only done this a few times, but I learned from my mistakes. 

   Getting a good flat and square edge on the doubled thickness is the key to success.  I put the doublers on so their edges are proud of the top, and then use a top-bearing pattern bit to rout the doubler edges flush.  Then, using biscuits for a flush alignment, glue and clamp your edges in place.

   Wonder why they make those edge clamps?  Now you know.

   A random-orbit sander is used to flush up the top surface if there are any irregularities.  You will want your gluing surface flat with no ridges.

   I don't like to bevel the edge with a plain 45, but instead prefer to use a bit that makes a straight down cut just through the laminate and into the edging, then does its bevel (or ogee, or whatever.)

2. 
   JTJohnson | Sep 17, 2005 05:02am | #2

   This is how we do it in the cabinet shop. Bear in mind that we have slightly bigger tools to play with.

   We start with a square Core material ( 3/4" Particle Board cut on the sliding table saw) Add your 3/4" inch build up to the outer edges of the core. We usually run our buildup aboout 4 inches wide. Don't forget to place some backing material on the back side of the core before you add the build up. Take a top bearing flush cutting bit and trim everything flush with your core board. Apply your laminate and trim. File the laminate to make it completely flush with the core. Apply your banding material using glue and finish nails and clamps. Use a lipping planer to trim the banding material. (This step tends to be performed by only a select few in the shop.) Then bevel your banding material usinf router and bit of choice.

   jeremy

3. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 17, 2005 07:49am | #3

   I've done quite a lot of these and here's the way I've done them.

   1) Make up the substrate with either particle board or MDF. Double up the front and back edge with 3-4" strips.

   2) I then attach a 3/4" X 1 1/2" strip of wood to the front side/ends. If I want to go the whole 9 yards, I glue/biscuit the strips and clamp (no nail holes). Otherwise, I glue and attach the strips with 18 ga finish nails.

   For outside corners I miter the strips and radius the corner.

   3) Once the glue is dry, I use a RO sander to make sure the wood strip is dead flush with the substrate. Random pencil marks across the strip/substrate will help.

   4) Then I apply the laminate. I use a flush trim bit to cut off the excess.

   5) I use a 45 degree camfer bit and make about three passesacross the wood edging -- the last pass being about 1/16". I bring it down so about 3/8" of the wood strip is showing at the camfer. then I take a laminate file (or block of wood with 120 grit sand paper) to just slightly break the sharp edge of the laminate.

   6) Last, I mask off the laminate and stain and/or varnish the wood edge to match the cabinets.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

4. 
   calvin | Sep 17, 2005 03:05pm | #4

   I like to do the applied wood with lam over to further protect from water entry between the deck and the nosing.   The black edge of the lam is "hidden" by the transition to the wood.

   You're using hickory.  Make several passes with the router, gradually going deeper.  Don't be a speed freak, but don't burn the edge either.  Hickory is stringy and it doesn't take much to rip out a chunk, ruining a good job.  If you start to tear out, go just beyond and re-enter the wood, trying to "cut off" that tear out b/4 it goes any further.

   Best of luck.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Sphere | Sep 17, 2005 03:52pm | #5

   Right on Cal.

   I have also made a few notches a few inches apart with the bit, then climb cut back to the last notch, finish up the last pass normally. That helps a lot with Ash or Hickory.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

1. 
   calvin | Sep 17, 2005 04:03pm | #7

   I learned about hickory nosing on maybe the 35th ft. of a 38 ft counter edge.  I CHI WA WA.  Almost lost the edge, but received dispensation from the gods that day. 

   Ever make a mini dutchman?  Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Sphere | Sep 17, 2005 04:13pm | #8

   Mini Dutchman..? Yep. You could call it that.

   I made a whitepine sink cab that had a 5/8ths groove around it for a 5/8ths beaded noseing ( can't find a pic yet). The router slipped somehow and I wound up with a NICE divot, right above the doors!

   I used a forstner bit to enlarge the hole to 3/4" and plug cut a tite red knot, glued it in  and rerouted..WHEW. Saved my keester.

   That count? LOL  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

1. 
   calvin | Sep 17, 2005 04:23pm | #9

   you bet.

   no mitre magic nor trim in a tube here.

   unless absolutely necessary.

   Keester saving, the name of the game.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

2. 
   Sphere | Sep 17, 2005 04:44pm | #10

   Found it.

   The fix is above the left door.

   It now has his and her sinks, tip out drrawer trays and full extension drawers in the center door, they are wired for curling irons, ele tooth brushs and the like...

   The cab was a royal pain in the butt.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   
3. 
   gregb | Sep 17, 2005 04:55pm | #12

   Nice work, Sphere. No copper accents, though? ; )

4. 
   Sphere | Sep 17, 2005 05:01pm | #13

   Back then ( 10 yrs about) the only copper I played with was pennies and romex.LOL  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

5. 
   Moncla | Sep 17, 2005 05:07pm | #14

   Thanks for everyone's help.  Good carpenters make mistakes but great ones can fix them.  Reading about your mess ups reminded me of a ballustrade I was putting together.  I was by myself, had it all glued up and when I was tapping the handrail down on the ballusters the volute broke in half across the short grain.  Have you ever tried to clamp a volute back together?  Gorilla glue, some braces tacked to the volute to keep it from rolling around when clamped, a little sanding and no one knew the difference.

5. 
   steve | Sep 17, 2005 04:00pm | #6

   i've built hundreds of countertops as you describe, see my article in FHB last fall, october i think.

   18 guage 1 1/4 nails and wood glue will hold the wood edge more than adequetely to the particle board with a doubled up edge

6. 
   gregb | Sep 17, 2005 04:52pm | #11

   Aside from the excellent advise posted here, you may want to consider using pocket screws on the underside of the build-up to attach your nosing. This way, there's no fussing with clamps, & no brad holes to fill. We've been using the Kreg jig (mini or rocket) to do this for several years now, always with good results.