I have an issue with my front door jam. The previous homeowner/destroyer went a few rounds with the screen door piston/spring assembly on my front door. We are replacing the storm door with a new one while we’re siding. The problem is the jam where the piston mounted has a large chip (about 1″ wide by about 8-10″ long…..more like a large splinter). This was caused by all sorts of screws etc. that were used to attach this spring/piston.
My current thought is that since the new door will have two springs, one up top and one on the bottom and nothing in the middle where this mess is, I might be able to fill the chipped area with wood epoxy and sand and paint. The problem is that this would be a vertical application so I would think I need something relatively thick that can withstand exterior humidity and temperature fluctuations.
Obviously replacing the whole jam for this chip seems a little overkill.
Thoughts on what epoxy/filler would work?
Thanks in advance as usual.
SJ
Replies
Find someplace that has WEST system epoxy; that stuff is designed to work with wood, generally in boats. If it's not painted, you might want to scarf in a piece rather than filling the holey bit with thickened epoxy; even thickened with wood dust it will still stand out against the grain of the rest of the wood.
My standard WEST system warning: Once you have this stuff around, you will find yourself using it for everything. It's mighty useful! I've gone through at least $250 worth in the last few years.
http://westsystem.com/
did
I have
misplaced my pants
West is good but overkill for a small job like this.
Get a can of Minwax Wood Filler. It mixes like Bondo and sets in less than twenty minutes and has a consistancy like wood.
Or use Bondo.
Most hardware stores have either
i like west systems also for exterior with all the additive's, fillet compounds it has a wide array of applications also has reasonable to good structual integrity as far as compression, i dont want to start quoting wrong but the booklet- has an in depth info on the structual capabilities. the minwax is also good but i limit that for small exterior, medium size interior. i know what the can sez , but i 've seen a few problems with it . the last 5 years i've also used abatron, the consolidant and the two part wood filler, stuff is tough as nails and very light weight. 90% of my work is restoration work, estate's here on long island, and rhode island during the summer months. any how using the west, abatron's, minwax comes in handy which also has a consolidant which i believe might just be methanol alcohol. years ago i remember my grandfather pouring embalming fluid and ether to stablize the wood . get it ready for a dutchmen, they had two part epoxy but they we're a little known in the building field, but he would get his stuff from boat yard in rhode island. any how good luck bear
Edited 8/7/2002 7:09:59 PM ET by the bear
http://www.systemthree.com My personal favorite and I've done a fair share of boat work with it. My concern with boat epoxy in your application is controlling the sag on a vertical surface while it sets up. You can thicken it well with wood flour or micro-balloons or whatever and use the fastest hardener, but if you're not familiar with using it, you might have a mess on your hands.
If I was going to use epoxy to do what you're doing, I would dig out the damaged area and make a form to fit over the hole. Face the form with wax paper to act as a release agent. Trowel in the epoxy mix and them screw or tack the form to the jam. If you've got a good mix of epoxy and filler, it will have the consistency of cold honey. And a thick fill of epoxy is going to get hot as it hardens so you might want to do this in stages (several layers) or keep your repair area to about a 1/4" thick ( the epoxy will flow into the holes and cracks).
You may have some cleanup sanding and, of course fill the holes where the form was attached.
Have fun. And another poster is correct: If you start playing with epoxy, you might get hooked. ( And the stuff has infinite shelf life. If the resin sits for a long time, or gets cold or frozen, it crystalizes but can be brought back to life by setting the container in a tub of hot water).
i can't remember the name of the stuff to save my life, but there is now a wood version of propoxy, you know that epoxy based plumbers putty. that stuff rocks as a filler; it dries rock hard and does not budge come hell or high humidity. the downside is that, like all wood fillers, the yellowish tan looks nothing like wood and it won't take stain, but seein as you're painting that shouldn't be an issue. it comes in a stick in a plastic tube and is composed of a thick, two part putty, one part wrapped around the other and seperated by some sort of membrane to keep it from reacting in storage. just rip off a chunk, knead it until it has a consistant color, then stick it in the crack. it sands pretty nice, too. happy hunting.
Durhams water putty would work fine. Easy to find and cheap too.
I've used the Durhams Rock Hard water puutty too. Keep a can in the truck all the time.
But It isn't waterproof. It'll weaken in water again like particle board so I avoid using it for exterior applications.Excellence is its own reward!
Correct you are. I was thinking that it would be behind the storm door, so would be protected from the weather. I suppose it could be considered outside or inside according to the location, and whether the prevailing winds drive water and moisture between the storm and entry doors. Myself, I would probably dutchman it in theory, but nothing ever seems to get done right here at home. In reality I would probably paint over the split parts, and plan to fix it correctly later. Actually the paint between my houses rear storm and entry is over 15 years old and still fine, so I still think water putty would work, but it is not ideal. I have had poor luck with bondo on wood, so I can cross that one out, and epoxy is a pain to work with, and overkill for patching a split out jamb.
Well painted and on a vertical surface protected by a storm, it might do ok. Actually, once you get used to working with the epoxy type fillers like Minwax or Abatron, it is no more difficult than mixing up the Durhams. I use West for bonding but once you start having to add fillers to it, it does get complicated so I stick to the preformulated ones.
I keep a box of latex gloves in the truck for painting and epoxy work too. And a gallon of acetone for cleanup when needed.Excellence is its own reward!
Steve, There's another way to do this. If the trim piece is just basic flat lumber and the repair area is not structural, this is a pretty straightforward repair, requiring only a sharp chisel, a wood scrap of similar density, your favorite wood glue, and a plane or sander to finish. This is also known as a dutchman repair
Use the chisel to clean up the splintered area and create a flat surface. It does not have to be parallel to the finish surface of the jamb or trim, just flat enough that you can get a good glue joint between the repair surface and the scrap for the dutchman. The scrap does not have to be pre-shaped to match the profile of the trim, but it does need to cover the area completely, let it overlap. You can use masking tape to clamp the patch in place while the glue sets. After it is set, trim off the duthman patch flush with the finish surface, fill any voids along the glue line if needed and paint.
It is hard to use epoxy (or a setting wood filler such as Water Putty, also a good choice), but I have done that as well. Prepare a couple thin scraps of wood that you can use to box in the patch area, coat these scraps with something the epoxy or putty won't bond to, such as Saran wrap or plastic packing tape. Mix your filler and fill in the patch area, being careful not to overfill. Before the material slumps, tack or tape the plastic covered scraps in place. Once the filler has set you will need to sand off the filler to meet the profile of the trim. This is trickier with these fillers than with a wood scrap. Once the epoxy has set, it is very hard . Using a sander, you risk removing the surounding wood faster than the epoxy. The epoxy will tend to clog your sandpaper as well, adding to your woe.
If you get to the epoxy after it has set up, but before it completely hardens, you can pare it away with a sharp chisel, but it is hard to leave a really flat surface. The water putty is easier to sand off and I would use that over the epoxy filler if the area is protected and not too large. That said, I have used the Minwax wood filler for this stuff, but only where a wood repair was not possible, the repair was hidden or the are was too exposed for Water Putty. I've used auto body filler as well, but I am hesitant to recommend it, there are those who maintain that it can cause problems down the road. I do have an exterior window sill (100+ years old) that had extehsive checking and weather damage. Before I could stop a hired painter, he had repaired it with Bondo. I was pissed, but the repair is still solid after 8 or so years, so I am keeping my fingers crossed on that one.
Think about applying a wood scrap as a dutchman repair, I think it will be quicker and easier and will give you better results.
Thanks for all the ideas. I'll let you know how it goes. I'll have to see what is locally available as far as fillers and epoxies go.
I am confident that since I am painting it and not staining I can make this look fine. Thank God.....the last thing I felt like doing was replacing the whole flipping door frame for one bum section.
SJ