As anyone put in a picket or lattice style fence with brick corner pillars/posts? Another summer project is fencing the back yard. The variables in the fencing equation include providing a secure environment for kids and a 110 pound dog. I’d like to also use the fence as a backdrop on both sides to plant assorted perennials.
I like the look of a white picket or lattice style fence and was thinking of brick pillars at the corners to tie in with the brick foundation of the house. The fence would have to be about 5 ft tall to accomodate the pooch. But how do you connect the wood with the brick to make sure it’s secure? (I know this is pretty basic info for all you pros out there, but I haven’t built a decorative fence before and I want it to last!) And I know the home improvement stores carry wood alternatives, but they are really artificial looking and not very sturdy.
Also, for the wooden posts inbetween the brick corners, I’ve read some past links, but the debate seems pretty mixed for the best way to set the wooden posts in the ground: in concrete or in dirt with a gravel base for drainage? Does one way last longer than the other? We’re in the midwest, so we go thru pretty cold winters and hot muggy summers.
Thanks!
Replies
If I was going to do brick posts (in freeze-prone country), I'd pour a full foundation (Sonotube, maybe), coming up to just above grade with it, then brick upwards from there. (Note, the foundation must reach below the frost line.) Be sure to provide double/triple the "normal" wicking/drainage at the base of the brick, and make sure there's no way that water can get captured inside (even after a flood).
The wood posts, on the other hand, should just be set 2.5-3 feet deep in crushed rock.
To attach the rails, you can either just let them into the side of the post (only need to be anchored horizontally on one end) or you can attach (lead anchors or whatever) a narrow wood vertical nailer for the rails. (If you want, you can leave a recess in the side of the post for the nailer.)
There are also various types of metal rail ends that could be attached via masonary screws to the post. A welding shop could probably make up something a little nicer looking.
If you let the rails into the side, be sure the pockets are arranged to drain cleanly, either sloped out or sloped in to a hollow where the water can weep out the bottom.
Water is a deadly enemy here -- even without frost it can cause spalling, and frost can totally destroy the post.