Hello,
I am looking for opinions abt using fir for our new first-floor bathroom.
The bathroom will be used primarily as a powder room, but will have a shower in it (guest use). We found some nice, cheap (!) 4.25″ reclaimed fir, which will have a great look in our 1906 Craftsman… just have some concern for the water issue…
Also, any suggestions on sealers that are eco-friendly?
Replies
TONS of wood floor discussions (not necessarily fir related) in both Cooks Talk and Breaktime. Hmmm, I think Breaktime had more options on sealing (varathane, marine varnish and so forth) than Cooks Talk. Do an advanced search, all forums, from now until the beginning of time using the words "wood floor bathroom".
Take a bathroom break before reading and bring food and water. There's ALOT to read.
Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons for you are crunchy
and will be delicious
with about a pound of Samaki chocolates. (rough week)
Hello. I have a 1876 Victorian with pine floors in the bathroom. Bathroom is 9x10 and has a bath tub and a corner shower. I refinished the floors 7 yrs ago, just due to scratching, using regular floor refinish-I think it was flecto brand available at HD. I put on 5 coats and there is absolutely no water damage anywhere. I am not concerned when I do get water on the floor, although I was at first. I would do it again in a second.
i remember seeing quite a while ago (i think it was in fine homebuilding) a bathroon floor in (i believe) fir. the installer added a piece of white marble under the toilet to raise it up and also to seal the toilet to stone instead of wood. it raised the toilet only about 1/2" or so. the marble was maybe 18" x 24" or so. a real nice detail.
I like the idea of raising the toilet up a little on the marble slab. As my knees get older and creakier my toilet gets shorter and shorter! It would, I assume, require an extension on the flange to hook it up.
i'm not sure if an extension was used because the slab was only slightly raised. still, it provided a nice reveal around the toilet.
i just wish i could remember which issue of fine homebuilding i saw it in.
Have you tried the online index? Go the the FHB main page (Home Building, Remodeling & Design button above), and somewhere you'll find a link to Magazine Index or Article Index. I don't remember for sure which one.
thanks, Uncle Dunc. i'll try that. if for no other reason than to satisfy my curiosity.
aimless: you can purchase toilets with a 17 1/2 inch high bowl now. Kohler has at least two of them. We just bought the Kohler Cimmaron toilet and tank to replace the original in our batroom (c. 1952) and will have the plumber install it.
Fluidmaster makes a wax-free toilet installation bowl gasket with a 3 inch gasket, 4 inch sleeve that can be installed over uneven floors or recessed tile floors. (item # 7500)
mimi
This piece of marble for mounting the toilet is a common detail in NY City apartments built in the 1920s. It makes for a steadier (and easier to clean) surface than the 1" or so hexagonal tiles on concrete.
It does look nice, but when the rest of the floor is wood it has the added advantage of not staining when the toilet sweats.
Mike, do you have wood floors in your bathroom? We are restoring and adding on to a 1890 Farmhouse and I'm thinking to putting wood floors in the masterbath room, but I afraid. Should I be?
Carolyn, I live in an old house with painted wood floors in the bathroom, but I've installed plenty of wood floors in other folks' bathrooms. There is nothing wrong with the practice if a few details are considered:
Will little ones be using the toilet or bathtub? The extra splashing makes a big difference on the floors.
Do you like things to remain pristine or do you like a bit of character? There's a good chance that eventually the floor will show some signs of being in a wet environment. That doesn't mean the wood will rot, but it does mean you may get some water spots. I like to use reclaimed/recycled lumber for floors when I can, and these work particularly well in bathrooms because they are already "distressed." Maple and birch flooring are especially prone to black and blue spots if water finds its way under the finish. A coat of finish (water or oil-based poly) on the bottom and all edges and end cuts, and at least three coats on top, four is better. Gloss poly is harder; topcoat with satin if you want to dull it down.
If you will have a shower stall in your bathroom and have the space, it's a good idea to make a tiled "dryoff zone" just outside of the shower, maybe with a small bench, a mirror, and some hooks. A 3' x 3' shower with a 3' x 3' dryoff zone works better than a 3' x 6' shower, and the tiled floor takes the brunt of the excess water.
The master bath is where you prepare to meet the day, and where you prepare to put the day to rest. It should be comfortable and relaxing to you. If you like wood, use wood.
Mike
Thanks Mike. I think I would really love the wood, but I' m losing the battle to my husband who is insisting on cermic tile.
We have a cork floor in our master bath. There is ceramic in kids bath. We treat the cork the same as wood, wipe up any drips...we really love the look and the way it feels.
Jennifer
Why do you need to seal the toilet? Is it leaking?
We had maple flooring in the powder room of our last house that had a polyurethane finish, and it still looked perfect after four years (three boys -- lots of spills & other stuff). Just put down a huge bathmat when guests use the shower, and check afterwards for any puddles. We never had the marble slab under the toilet, but we didn't live in a humid climate.