Replies

1. 
   wayne_greene | Jan 14, 1999 09:24pm | #1

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   Sami,
   I have done this a couple of times when converting a garage or basement into living space.

   I live in a climate that is cold in the winter so insulation and a vapor barrier are a consideration.

   First, I lay down a layer of 6mil poly for a vapre barrier and then attach pressure treated 2X4's @ 16' O.C. to the concrete. Shimming under them to level the surface if necessary. Then I install rigid styrofoam insulation between the 2X4 sleepers. The flooring can be attached directly to the 2X's or a layer of subflooring can be installed if thickness is not a factor.

   As far as the difference in 1 1/8" vs 5/8" flooring, yes, the thicker flooring will always last more surface sandings.

1. 
   WNelms | Jan 15, 1999 09:03am | #2

   *Sami - - I am an amateur weekend renovation warrior and recently, I was considering the same scenario as you, except for in an existing slab built house where I wanted to minimize the floor thickness. After the floor was leveled, a layer of 6 mil plastic sheeting was laid over the concrete, overlapping it about 2'. Then, a layer of 1/2" thick construction grade plywood was nailed to the concrete at 8" on center. After this layer was down, a second layer of 3/8" thick BC plywood was glued and screwed crosswise to the first layer of plywood with the smooth side up. This arrangement provided a rigid, non-moving deck for the floor to be glued to yet without the hardness of bare concrete. The house is in the south and the perimeter of the concrete slab is insulated, so I didn't have to worry about insulation. A 5/16" laminated wood floor with 3" wide planks was glued to the plywood per the manufacturers recommendations and we have had no problems in 2.5 years of use. It may not be the least expensive way to go or the easiest, but after much consideration, it was the best way for our project.As for thickness, some of the laminated products can take one sanding, but manufacturers are recommending re-surfacing by stripping and restaining. The laminated products are much more stable, but they do have some drawbacks, we just haven't had ours long enough to experience any.By the way, tape a small 2' by 2' clear plastic sheet air tight the concrete and let it sit for a day or so. If you see moisture particles condense within the plastic, other precautions to prevent the wood floor from rotting may be necessary.

1. 
   Dick_G. | Jan 16, 1999 05:27am | #3

   *I bought an older cottage in northern Michigan that had a concrete floor. The previous owner had laid 2x on the concrete with 1.5" bead foam between the strips and then covering it all with 3/4" plywood and linoleum over the plywood. The linoleum served as the vapor barrier and moisture rotted all the wood and it was a swamp. When I remodeled, I tore it all out and covered the floor with 6 mil visqueen and covered it with 3/4" styrofoam (closed cell,blue in color) without using stringers. I than went over the top with 3/4" OSB and anchored it to the slab occasionally with Remington anchors. This permitted me to install the type of flooring I desired. By not using stringers the load is directly bearing on the closed cell foam. It was easy to install, worked great and in zero weather the floors were good and warm too.

2. 
   Sami_Kader | Jan 16, 1999 07:41am | #4

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   Could anyone give me some guidance on installing wood floors on a concrete slab-constructed house? How do you fasten the flooring to the concrete substrate? I do not want to "float" a Pergo (or equivalent) floor, I like the look of natural wood. I am leaning toward using pine because I like the look. Is the thicker flooring (~1-1/8" thick) better for more wear thickness above the tounge? It is really not much more expensive than the thin (~5/8" thick) flooring. This would be for new construction, so I could design the building to accomodate the thicker flooring. Opinions and experience in this area are appreciated.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jan 16, 1999 07:41am | #5

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   I have attached 1/2" strip flooring to 3/8" plywood nailed and glued to a slab. I have also used 3/8" parquet over 3/8" plywood. I think this is the minimum thickness you can have. In both cases I had to meet tile or slate, so I could not go any thicker. One time I used concrete nails, the other time I shot hardened joist hanger gun nails into the ply wood and then set them with a sledge. This was hard on the nail gun driver but easy on the fingers.
   Blind flooring nails go through the plywood, hit the slab and clinch, so there was no problem there.