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Discussion Forum

Wood in the Shower

| Posted in General Discussion on July 5, 2001 09:35am

*
I live in a 30 year old house. The master bathroom needs to have the shower doors replaced. I was considering making the doors out of Oak with saftey glass panes. Is this as bad an idea as my wife says? What kind of finish can stand up to daily use in a shower? I figured if boats can be made of wood, why not the shower doors?

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  1. Pro-Dek | Jul 04, 2001 02:49am | #1

    *
    Shower doors could be made outta wood as long as you don't get them wet.Just too much expansion and contraction from the hot water for any good sealer/varnish to withstand.I know this is hard,but just say,"ok ,honey, I checked on the wood shower door application and although it can be done it doesn't look like it will give us the quality and longevity we're looking for.:-) Bob

    1. Qtrmeg_ | Jul 04, 2001 03:02am | #2

      *Oak is an open grained wood, so I guess you could fill it and seal the heck out of it, but you will never prove your wife wrong.

      1. CaseyR_ | Jul 04, 2001 03:29am | #3

        *You could try something like a marine epoxy. The West System seems to have received good reviews. You can read some info on this at:http://www.cris.com/~westsys/index.shtmlhttp://www.westsystem.com/All the applications that I have seen with epoxy have had a high gloss, with the clear applications looking somewhat like the wood had been coated with plastic (which, I guess, it had been). I don't know if there is some way to provide a more natural finish or a matt surface. This is used extensively in working with wooden boats, canoes, kayaks, etc. If all surfaces were fully coated, this should hold up as well as anything. However, I am guessing that if you left a small area uncoated where water could soak in, then the water would be pretty much trapped by the other coated surfaces and you could have some problems develop.

        1. Shawn_Twing | Jul 04, 2001 04:06am | #4

          *Doug-have you considered making your doors out of cedar? Our house has a customer shower stall with cedar doors -- most likely 20-25 years old -- and our master bathroom has cedar everywhere except for the tub itself. It has been in place for 25 years (23 yrs. before we bought it) and it looks flawless to this date (ugly, but flawless).You might want to consider making laminated cedar doors, alternating the grain with each lamination. Two would be sufficient, but three would be even better. Just a thought.Shawn.

          1. Ralph_Wicklund | Jul 04, 2001 05:02am | #5

            *Hey, almost a sauna.

          2. Just_Another_Guy | Jul 04, 2001 05:27am | #6

            *Although I'm not a contractor or anything I have been in on the building of more than one cedar-strip canoe. (I guide part-time) anyway, why not use a light fibreglass and then epoxy it just like they do on the boats? You can sand to a crystal clear finish and completely seal the wood, although I can't figure how you'd keep the glass from getting destroyed. (Epoxying is messy work) in anycase, the important thing would be to keep the door completely sealed, and you can do that. The person who suggested West-system epoxy has pointed you to one of the best marine epoxys on the market, just be ready to pay for it. It aint cheap stuff.Once your door is done, you may be able to paddle it down the Nahanni.Chris PotvinBTW this website has a couple pro canoebuilders on it who may be able to shed advice on fibreglassing/epoxying for you if you post a questionhttp://www.myccr.com/SectionForums/index.php

          3. Luka_ | Jul 04, 2001 05:34am | #7

            *I used to have wood in the shower all the time.I haven't had a shower in a very looooong time.

          4. xJohn_Sprung | Jul 04, 2001 06:22am | #8

            *Boats are not used in 100+ degree F water, nor are they subjected to much soap and other cosmetic chemistry. Even with that, they're also not cheap or easy to maintain. Make up a few test pieces, including whatever kind of joints you want to use, and hang them in an existing shower for a while before you commit to techniques and materials for the final job.-- J.S.

          5. Rich_ | Jul 04, 2001 09:05am | #9

            *No one has yet mentioned the stain factor of wood in a wet area. Not to mention the daily hot/cold cycle. Even with a saturating coat of epoxy the wood just seems to run black.A very good cabinetmaker friend of mine got the wild idea of wood shampoo shelfs in the shower. Within a very short time the wood turned splotchy black and caused tannin streaks down the wall even though she used a spar varnish.xJohn did mention the expansion/contraction problem. How you gonna' seal the glass to keep that mould from growing at the seal? How permanent (maintenance-free) would it be? For that reason alone I would rule out oak. I don't think ceder would stand up to the weight of the glass over time.

          6. Jim_Walters | Jul 04, 2001 12:17pm | #10

            *I go along with the wife.

          7. david_thodal | Jul 04, 2001 08:59pm | #11

            *Doug, The showers I have done in the past that were wood (cedar 3/8x 4 t&g) have stood up very well using the original WATCO Danish Oil (tung oil base). The key is to reapply several coats every year. Water staining never occured. I have used the same treatment on sauna doors that I have made. Select the best straight grain, knot-free cedar you can find. My preference would be alaskan yellow. Use a mortise and tenon joint at your rails into stiles using an oak pin. Keep your stock size at least a true 1-1/8" thick and say 3-1/2--4" width. Have fun.walk good david

          8. L._Siders | Jul 04, 2001 09:44pm | #12

            *A vote here for the 'WIFE'

          9. Jeff_Clarke_ | Jul 05, 2001 01:24am | #13

            *Wood not.

          10. ANDY_C._CLIFFORD | Jul 05, 2001 05:43am | #14

            *I've been involved in building wood kayaks recently in my spare time...did I say spare time???? hmmmm, no wonder I havent gotten to far...These boats are good in salt and fresh water of different temperatures. Dont know about the steam but seems like the wood is so encased in fiberglass and epoxy I would think it should be fine....and incredably strong as well. Go to the Guillimot Kayaks web site.Theres a discussion post board like this there. Its a cool site anyway...Good luck...Just go for it dude. Whats the worst that can happen. I been thinking about doing an old style lions claw bathtub the same way as the kayaks. Keep in touch...Andy

          11. diddidit_ | Jul 05, 2001 01:46pm | #15

            *Yah, West System epoxies are very easy to work with and are designed to work with wood. Highly reccommended in my book.did

          12. diddidit_ | Jul 05, 2001 01:49pm | #16

            *I've seen diesel tanks made of wood encapsulated with West System epoxy. The stuff can withstand just about anything except direct sunlight. It's not inherently messy, either - you just need to use reasonable care.did

          13. Thaddeus_Raven | Jul 05, 2001 05:27pm | #17

            *For high moisture environments has anyone used bamboo? Perhaps the composite bamboo flooring stock has dimensions that will work. We've used bamboo steamers over our wok for over twenty years with no ill effect and virtually no staining. I'm tempted to use the bamboo flooring for the next kitchen project.

          14. Just_Another_Guy | Jul 05, 2001 09:35pm | #18

            *I agree with everything You Said Andy, Only Canoes are better ;O)

  2. Doug_MacKay | Jul 05, 2001 09:35pm | #19

    *
    I live in a 30 year old house. The master bathroom needs to have the shower doors replaced. I was considering making the doors out of Oak with saftey glass panes. Is this as bad an idea as my wife says? What kind of finish can stand up to daily use in a shower? I figured if boats can be made of wood, why not the shower doors?

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