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Discussion Forum

Wood preserve sealer before prime/paint

dockelly | Posted in General Discussion on October 26, 2009 02:27am

Almost ready for the paint. Most old paint gone, down to bare wood. I’ve read wood preservative sealer , a paintable variety, is a good first step. One block to ocean, really want to make this paint job last as long as possible. Any one else do it this way and recommend it?

Thanks

Kevin

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  1. User avater
    Dam_inspector | Oct 26, 2009 02:40am | #1

    I used some DAP woodlife wood preserver under white paint once. I thought it was paintable, but my brite white paint turned canary yellow after a few minutes.

    It's supposed to make paint last longer.

    Try a spot first.

    1. dockelly | Oct 26, 2009 02:43am | #2

      The online reading said make sure it says it's paintable, probably the Sherwin Williams guy could recommend something.

  2. reinvent | Oct 26, 2009 02:56am | #3

    If you really want to make it last then you should back prime all that exterior trim. But that would involve tearing it off.

    If you have money to burn there is always this stuff.
    http://www.finepaintsofeurope.com/
    Some of the best paint out there.

    1. dockelly | Oct 26, 2009 03:10am | #4

      It's lasted 120 years without back priming. Better wood years ago:). Already bought SW oil primer and latex paint, 2 coats worth.

    2. User avater
      Dam_inspector | Oct 26, 2009 03:13am | #5

      That's like 155 bucks a gallon for Eurolux housepaint!I have thought about buying some of the oil paint for my front door. I don't think there are many painted houses in Holland, but Europeans have those nice looking doors.

  3. User avater
    McDesign | Oct 26, 2009 03:23am | #6

    Yes.  Use a product called "Woodlife" on raw, bright wood.  I spray it on with a garden sprayer, then brush out the few drips.

    It's good stuff.

     

    Forrest - doin' that on my house after research

    1. dockelly | Oct 26, 2009 06:07am | #7

      Hey, How are you and your wife? Think of you guys often, with the barn board table and the tiles she makes.I'll look for the woodlife stuff.Be well.Kevin

      1. Jercarp | Oct 26, 2009 01:49pm | #10

        Hey doc, I've used Woodlife as well and it's a good product. The oil primer is also a good move. The biggest deterrent is going to be keeping up on the maintenance and making sure water is directed away and kept from collecting in areas.

    2. dockelly | Oct 26, 2009 06:32am | #8

      Found 3 Woodlife products,Woodlife classic
      Woodlife Coppercoat
      Woodlife CreocoatI assume you are using Classic, correct?

      1. User avater
        McDesign | Oct 26, 2009 12:06pm | #9

        Yes - I can order Classic in the 5-gal pail at my local Ace hardware.

        DW's tile is going well - she's about to start back in, as the kids are back in school for the year.

        Forrest

        1. dockelly | Oct 30, 2009 05:36am | #14

          http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=125901.13If you get the time, this is a good read. Says you have to spray on bare wood only. I have some paint, here and there. Probably could avoid it easily since mostly it's bare. Just thought you'd like to know as well, garden sprayer would have to be careful in those areas with paint remaining.Kevin

      2. TommH | Oct 26, 2009 05:51pm | #11

        Doc, I have gotten good results with a 50/50 solution of boiled linseed oil and paint thinner used on old, dry stripped bare wood. It soaks in like crazy and stiffens the wood fibers. Sand lightly and apply oil primer.

  4. ajs | Oct 26, 2009 08:55pm | #12

    Here is a reference to an article that suggests using water repellant preservatives, and these are the products referenced in the article;

    http://www.rd.com/content/printContent.do?contentId=17527

    Behr No. 2-85 Waterproofing Sealer: (800) 854-0133. http://www.behr.com

    Cuprinol Clear Deck Wood Seal: (800) 424-5837. http://www.cuprinol.com

    Penofin Blue Label: (800) 736-6346. http://www.penofin.com

    Woodlife Classic Clear Wood Preservative: (800) 556-7737. http://www.wolman.com

    I have used a Cabots Clear Solution for this purpose.

    Al Smith

    1. dockelly | Oct 27, 2009 02:58am | #13

      Thanks Al,Think I'll go with the woodlife, readily available here. There was a good point in the article about the wood having to be completely stripped of paint. Most of my house is, but not all. I'll have to be careful in those areas.

      1. Timmyroams | Aug 26, 2017 09:46pm | #15

        Hey can anyone tell me what would happen if i applied this to a mostly stripped/sanded cedar surface if there are random small gouges with residual adhered paint and also a few areas with abatron liquid wood applied? i know woodlife claims all paint should be removed but since i can't would there be actuall adhesion issues? thanks!

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