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Wood siding over concrete block

| Posted in General Discussion on April 7, 2000 01:19am

*
I have a concrete block fireplace chimney 12’long, 3’wide and about 14’high, that is finished with about 1/2″ of stucco. I plan to side the chimney with horizontal cedar siding as is the rest of my house and would apply the siding over vertical 1″ x 3″ furring strips 2’o.c.

Should I attach the furring strips with anchor bolts that are shot into the block wall? If so, what is a good anchor size, depth and application tool. Or, alternatively, should I drill in the anchors by hand and then attach the furring strips. I did this(hand drill)about a year ago with 3 or 4 bolts to support my tv antennae and noticed that the hole for one of the bolts came out too large and I had to drill in another location.

The block appears to be in good condition, i.e. no chipping, flaking or joint voids, although I can see the course lines of the block through the
stucco. The house is about 42 years old.

I’d appreciate any advice that can be offered, and thanks for your time.

Norman

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  1. Guest_ | Apr 05, 2000 12:18am | #1

    *
    I would use Tapcons (concrete screws) and construction adhesive. Tapcons are screwed into a drilled hole (usually 3/16"). In concrete this requires a hammewr drill. In blocks, you may be able to get a satisfactory result with a regular drill (although a hammer drill drives a bit into a block like a hot knife goes through butter). You get a bit in every box of Tapcons. Tapcons hold as good or better than shot nails in block and you do not need to beg, borrow, or buy the gun. The adhesive will bridge any gaps between the stucco and the furring strips and make the job fail safe. Wear safety glasses or other suitable eye protection when drilling.

    1. Guest_ | Apr 05, 2000 01:11am | #2

      *Make sure you plan the siding project properly for your application. The reason I bring this up is that I have the pleasure to see what the wrong way is everytime I head east to work. A designers studio/furniture shop on the corner did what started out as a nice looking remodel of their block warehouse. Now that the siding has been on about 6 yrs. it looks like s--t. The big fancy fan in the gable is all over the place. The furring is telegraphing through and the paint has already been done once more. Looks like a moisture problem. Don't know that mere back priming would be enough. Study this one. Best of luck

      1. Guest_ | Apr 05, 2000 07:58pm | #3

        *Norman,Most pro's swear by tapcons. I've had nothing but headaches. I just furred a similar surface in my basement drilled 3/16" pilots and drove in cut nails.Got a great bite.

        1. Guest_ | Apr 05, 2000 10:04pm | #4

          *DamnitDon, The horse ain't dead yet. I told ya, if you used the 3/16 bit with the 3/16 Tapcon, you used the wrong bit. The 5/32 bit is for the 3/16 Tapcon. How's the bsmnt? Beautious yet?Don't swear by anything, but It'll work.BC

          1. Guest_ | Apr 05, 2000 10:31pm | #5

            *On old cement block..hell, on everything to do with cement we use cut nails and a two pound hammer..or we use concrete nails and a two pound hammer.. and if that fails we use a shot.. with the lowest load that will penetrate..we nailed up 1x4 PT @ 16" OC with yellow shots for this remodel... this is 5 years old and could use a new paint job...red cedar clapboards nailed with bronze ring shank nails..the only thing i would do different is i might put 15# felt across the 1x4 to give a more uniform exposure to the back side of the clapbaord...when the weather and temp. is just right you get a different condensation pattern on the face where the 1x4 verticals are..of course everything is backprimed and end primed...

          2. Guest_ | Apr 06, 2000 03:08pm | #6

            *Hi Cal,Did buy the 5/32" bit (even tho' tapcon put a 3/16" bit in the 3/16"screw box)the screws still pulled out. Basement comming along. Panelling is up. Floor is next. Vinyl tile over the existing vinyl tile or ceramic tile over it. Doing the cost analysis now.

          3. Guest_ | Apr 06, 2000 07:06pm | #7

            *As I was reading the post, the first thing that came to mind was moisture out of the block. I don't do waterproofing, but do any of those sealers really work over a long period of time? It's something to look into. Maybe you could apply some of this prior to starting the project.Good luck,Greg

          4. Guest_ | Apr 07, 2000 01:19am | #9

            *Damn Don, my apologies and congratulations.

  2. Norman_Jacklin | Apr 07, 2000 01:19am | #8

    *
    I have a concrete block fireplace chimney 12'long, 3'wide and about 14'high, that is finished with about 1/2" of stucco. I plan to side the chimney with horizontal cedar siding as is the rest of my house and would apply the siding over vertical 1" x 3" furring strips 2'o.c.

    Should I attach the furring strips with anchor bolts that are shot into the block wall? If so, what is a good anchor size, depth and application tool. Or, alternatively, should I drill in the anchors by hand and then attach the furring strips. I did this(hand drill)about a year ago with 3 or 4 bolts to support my tv antennae and noticed that the hole for one of the bolts came out too large and I had to drill in another location.

    The block appears to be in good condition, i.e. no chipping, flaking or joint voids, although I can see the course lines of the block through the
    stucco. The house is about 42 years old.

    I'd appreciate any advice that can be offered, and thanks for your time.

    Norman

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