Replies

1. 
   migraine | May 04, 2006 04:37am | #1

   Mineral oil from the drug store.

2. 
   zak | May 04, 2006 05:01am | #2

   there was a thread on this a month or two ago- the best idea I heard was to mix mineral oil (laxative sold at a drug store or grocery) with some parrafin (say, 2 M.O. to 1 paraffin) and heat it to dissolve the paraffin.  while it's still warm, rub it in generously.  wipe off the excess a few hours later, after it's had plenty of time to saturate the wood.

   It's food safe, but not very durable.  If you're not looking for something that's food safe, I'd recommend something like danish oil finish, which is a mix of boiled linseed oil and varnish.

   zak

   "so it goes"

3. 
   hdgis1 | May 04, 2006 05:02am | #3

   mineral oil seems like a bad idea. id try some polymerized tung oil. Mineral will not dry - ever. All finishes are food safe once fully cured

    

1. 
   UncleDunc | May 04, 2006 05:11am | #5

   >> All finishes are food safe once fully cured I would rather say, "All finishes commercially available in the US are food safe once fully cured."

1. 
   RedfordHenry | May 04, 2006 05:32am | #6

   I use Bemis Wood Conditioner (Bemis Manufacturing Co. Shebiygan Falls, WI.)  The label says "made from only natural ingredients, free from any taste or odor.  Meets FDA regs. 172.878 and 178.3620."  It's a clear oil of some sort and I've been using it on my maple counter tops for a few years.  Once or twice a year I scrub the counters really well, flood it on, let it soak in a few minutes, then wipe off the excess. 

2. 
   hdgis1 | May 05, 2006 08:12am | #7

   yes thought about that and was to lazy...forgot we have an international contingent here! SorryOh yeah, if you buy the 'salad' bowl finishes,etc your probably getting some mix of oils that you can create yourself. Just read the label before you spend so much on a custom oil

4. 
   Danno | May 04, 2006 05:06am | #4

   What the other two said is good. Vegitable oils will get rancid. Danish oil (Watco, anyway) is supposedly harmless once it cures. "Boiled" linseed has metalic dryers which I would think would not be good for food contact. Many woodworking catalogs sell oils for salad bowls and cutting boards which would be good too. But many people do use mineral oil.

5. 
   Snort | May 06, 2006 12:31am | #8

   Waterlox is another good replenishable countertop finish.

   I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head

6. 
   Lansdown | May 06, 2006 12:38am | #9

   * John Boos Mystery Oil Is Recommended For Care Of Tops And Blocks That Are Used As A Working, Cutting Surface. This Fine Oil Is A Mixture Of Mineral Oil, Linseed Oil And Tung Oil And Will Give Your John Boos Product The Same Quality Finish As The Factory.
   * We Recommend Oiling Your Tops Or Blocks Every 4-6 Weeks. This Food-Safe Oil Finish Keeps Your Blocks Looking New.

   
   

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   Edited 5/5/2006 5:48 pm ET by TGNY