Replies

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Apr 11, 2003 10:50pm | #1

   Chris.. if you can get the gutter on the ground and dry it out thorougly, and both have the same profile.. you can get a good joint witha  scarf and epoxy..

   the old timers would use a butt joint, white lead, and sheet lead wrapped and secured with galv. tacks

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   Piffin | Apr 12, 2003 12:29am | #2

   I use a scarf joint and PL Premium. It will bond and cure in a moist location. Not downright wet but presence of some moisture is OK. I have also used Gorilla Glue and Epoxies in some locations. Clamps and smalll screws to hold for curing is neccessary.

   Another option that is good but time consuming is a product called Git-Rot. It is a slow curing epoxy. You can use it for a new joint or for old rot in wood. Describe what you have and where you are in the process so far.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Runner444 | Apr 12, 2003 02:48am | #3

   Thanks for responding - the longer length of gutter actually cracked as part gave way under the weight of snow. Many of the metal hangers apparently snapped. I haven't seen it since early March,(am waiting for good weather), but I think that it's sound wood as well as the other section I'll use to make up the full run.

   I only have the 8" Hitachi so an angled joint would be tough unless I can borrow one. Probably that, gorilla glue as you suggested and screws? would work. I was toying with the idea of glue and dowels and a liner of lead. I guess that when it comes time to hoist this thing up, it will need a temp. splint on the side to keep the joint from getting stressed. Thanks, Chris

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 12, 2003 03:26am | #4

   I have never seen wood gutter from metal hangers. It is normal here for it to be a structural component of the house. We also need several men to hoist a long run like that, or seen one split open. You may need to use epoxy and dowels on a straight butt joint for that and find a way to re-inforce it for the hoist up. Gorila glue would be my last choice of the three glues I mentioned. I find it brittle in some locations..

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Runner444 | Apr 12, 2003 03:52am | #5

   Thanks again - I've enjoyed reading your answers in the past; this is such a great system. There's such a vast resource of knowledge here. Here comes the Sun!

2. 
   xMikeSmith | Apr 12, 2003 04:02am | #6

   you really don't need a sliding miter saw.. you can cut that joint in a homemade miter box with hand saw..

   sounds like you have wrap around gutter hangers with bar hangers from the eave .. they should be on 2' centers.. but you will seldom see them hung that close.. is this a wooden half round gutter ?

   you have to get the gutter down now and under cover so it will start to dry out.. figure two weeks minimum for drying before you attempt the epoxyMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

3. 
   FineBlade | Apr 12, 2003 04:16am | #7

   I've had excellent success with a scarf joint, then using a small router with a 1/2 inch straight bit mortise a slot around the profile on both ends, fill the slots and coat the ends with 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant, screw together with stainless countersunk screws, and plug the holes with plugs cut from a scrap of the gutter glued in with 5200. Use alcohol to clean up the 5200 so paint will bond properly. The key to the gutter lasting is to treat the inside annually. I have had good results with a cabot's clear waterproofing product with teflon, I can't remember the name. Hope this helps.