Replies

1. 
   john7g | Jan 07, 2009 06:06am | #1

   haven't done anything like that before but a few things come to mind that I'd offer up such as

   • rounded edges and corners (6"rad for the corners, maybe bigger) to prevent snags/dragging
   • plastic lam surface, light color so you can use it for a note pad/scratch pad/layout marks using a pencil that'll wipe clean with water
   • drawers
   • adjustable feet on the legs
   • power strip/outlet???
   • beer holder
   • ...
2. 
   FastEddie | Jan 07, 2009 06:41am | #2

   Should be pretty simple.  Plastic laminate work surface, but don't use the high gloss finish, get something in suede.  Should be easty to calculate the depth of the recess so the top of the sewing machine ... what do you call it? ... platen? ... is flush with the table.

   I think you need to tell the carpenter what height you want the table, and how much clear space around the machines.

   "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

3. 
   calvin | Jan 07, 2009 02:23pm | #3

   You sew, he doesn't probably.  Let him know all the things that would work great and those that would agravate you with this set up.

   Drawer/drawers for ?

   If he's good, he'll take that information and produce something pretty close.

   If he's real good he'll think up questions seemingly simple that will improve it even more.

   Simple things like the snagging, working height, etc sometimes get overlooked.  A caution on the work surface.  You want something that the fabric will slide on easily but not too easily that it slides off the table perhaps.

   Beats me, don't sew but once in a blue moon and I've been known to seal up a pocket.

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4. 
   Homewright | Jan 07, 2009 03:07pm | #4

   In another life, I did a lot of sewing on industrial machines for medical devices so here's another thought.  You might want to make a hinged 'drop wing' to the side of your machine which can be raised or dropped depending upon your needs for what you're working on.  Something as simple as a fold in leg to support it when it's up that would fold out of the way when not would be easy to build and give you more flexibility in your work layout.  Maybe another area where the surface is thin cork material where you can lay fabric out and pin it to the table surface to secure it while you mark or pin the material.  The radius corner and laminate ideas are both good as well.  Have fun designing your space...

5. 
   Frankie | Jan 07, 2009 03:34pm | #5

   A. Post this at Knots too. That forum is more geared to furniture making.

   B. Not sure a rounded edge is best because of finish required and cost. Finish must be perfect so as to not snag material.

   C. If you do opt for rounded edges, have your fabricator apply solid hardwood (maple) edging prior to laminating. This way, when the edges are rounded over the substrate (plywood) won't be exposed.

   D. My vote is for a basic square edge, side and top surfaces being a Formica-type material. I agree with a previous poster that white is best.

   E. Here's a site with options for table legs:

   http://www.kitchensource.com/table-bases/ha-welcome.html

   Hope this helps,

   Frankie

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1. 
   DanH | Jan 07, 2009 03:38pm | #7

   My wife's never complained about the square corners.
   The mark of the immature man is that he wants to die nobly for a cause, while the mark of a mature man is that he wants to live humbly for one. --Wilhelm Stekel

6. 
   DanH | Jan 07, 2009 03:36pm | #6

   Flat table with holes for the machines. Platforms below for the machines. It's good if the platforms are removable/adjustable so that fine-tuning of height can be done and an different machine used in the future. (Or, by "machines" do you mean that you'll be swapping the two in and out of the single-hole table? If so, an adjustable platform is much more important.)

   Make an acrylic form-fitting hole cover for each machine. (You need this, vs the top simply fitting tightly, to allow access for changing bobbins, etc.) Can either be inset to be flush with the table top (don't forget a thumb hole to assist in removal) or lay on top of the table with a beveled edge. (If flush then the machine must be positioned rigidly somehow, and the beveled edge approach works fine, so I'd recommend the latter.) Cut the cover to fit closely around the arm of the machine; does not need to fit tightly around the rest of the machine. (Hint, for some brands you can buy a stand-alone clear plastic mini-table pre-cut to fit the machine. Remove the legs from one of these to use as the cover.)

   The mark of the immature man is that he wants to die nobly for a cause, while the mark of a mature man is that he wants to live humbly for one. --Wilhelm Stekel
1. 
   DanH | Jan 07, 2009 03:40pm | #8

   One point: While the platform should be adjustable, there should be no fasteners extending below the bottom of the platform to catch knees.
   The mark of the immature man is that he wants to die nobly for a cause, while the mark of a mature man is that he wants to live humbly for one. --Wilhelm Stekel

1. 
   FastEddie | Jan 07, 2009 03:58pm | #9

   fasteners extending below the bottom of the platform to catch knees.

   Yeah, I just hate it when I snag my nylons on a ragged edge under the desk."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

2. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 07, 2009 04:07pm | #10

   since they are industrial.... do they use knee controls ?and is this going to be free standing or does it back up and gets built into a wall.. ie: how much room do you need behind the machine for outfeed also you and your chair have to be factored into the exact height that works best for youa free standing or peninsula would probaly be best and you might want to mount them offset and back-to-backyou want to think about access to your material, your threads, and our bobinsand natural and artificial lighting you have to be able to convey all your needs and he has to be able to come up with the compromise plan that gets closest within all the constraintsthe plan / design is the keysuede laminate surfaces work great with rounded wood edginglots of drawers within reach and maybe lazy ssan bobbin / thread storageeMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   user-111700 | Jan 07, 2009 07:12pm | #11

   the two machines need to be in the table with a cutout the shape of the machine stand and a 30 inch space behind it open for my chair to move around in. I pretty much have an idea what I want. this will be wood, covered with awning type vinyl to cover snags and give a sliding surface. it needs to be about 7 ft wide and 12 ft long. it has to be freestanding so I can walk all around. I thank you all for suggestions. would a laminate surface be very expensive? Susan

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 07, 2009 08:23pm | #12

   expensive is relative but you can get laminate sheet goods in 5' x 12'i'd figure on a 3/4 advantech base with a laminate top.... two pcs 4' x 12' each with a joint in the middle... framing for supporta nice eased wooden edge , with the laminate right to the edge and a routed edge... forget the awning type vinylMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   DanH | Jan 07, 2009 08:34pm | #13

   My wife found a laminate (melamine-type) table top about 3x6 for hers. I can't recall if we found it at HD or somewhere else, but I think it was made to fit atop wire shelving units (which is how hers is supported). The machine platform is a precut laminate shelf from HD.
   The mark of the immature man is that he wants to die nobly for a cause, while the mark of a mature man is that he wants to live humbly for one. --Wilhelm Stekel

7. 
   Sphere | Jan 07, 2009 08:40pm | #14

   My wife does miles of stuff with a few folding plastic buffet tables, she finds it handy to reconfigure the set up from the needle mach. to the felter.  mostly smaller than drapery, but the whole set up is variable, like my wood shop tables.

   Think flexible.

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1. 
   user-111700 | Jan 08, 2009 12:01am | #15

   This is the answer, too obvious of course for me to see, but I'm stealin it just the same, thanks, Susan

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 08, 2009 06:58am | #16

   yay !.....

   duane gets the attaboy !Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   user-111700 | Jan 08, 2009 07:29am | #17

   Now how about an idea for little wooden lifts for the legs to sit on. they are about an inch and a half shy.. maybe a 2x4 block with the center drilled out? Any other ideas geniuses ?i love you guys ! We won't tell the dear hubby, geeze it feels like I'm cheatin on him just picking your brains ! lol  Susan

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 08, 2009 02:25pm | #18

   was it good for you ?

    

   how about  alum pipe sleeve extensions from the hardware store ?Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   DanH | Jan 08, 2009 02:36pm | #19

   Usually there is a cross brace or a bend in the leg about 6-12 inches up from the bottom of the leg. You get some plastic drain pipe confortably larger in diameter than the legs and cut pieces so they fit over the legs and jam against the brace/bend, cutting them long enough to give you the extra length. The pipe is fairly cheap and is easily cut with a hacksaw.The other obvious option is to cut blocks of wood to fit under the legs, and drill holes in them about 1/2" deep to receive the table feet.
   The mark of the immature man is that he wants to die nobly for a cause, while the mark of a mature man is that he wants to live humbly for one. --Wilhelm Stekel