Replies

1. 
   DanH | Sep 09, 2010 11:26pm | #1

   I've cut a little bit of Corian with standard woodworking (not tile) tools -- no problems.  I've assumed that you want to be careful that your tools don't "grab" the workpiece and cause it to chip/shatter, but I've never seen (or sought to test) the downside of ignoring that assumption.

   If you don't need a strong joint then you can use silicone caulk for "glue".  Otherwise there are "epoxy" (2-part) glues made for the task.

2. 
   JTC1 | Sep 10, 2010 09:08am | #2

   Welcome to Breaktime. 

   >>Can I cut this with a standard tle saw blade?<<

   Maybe, never tried it, probably not - would probably just melt and gum up a diamond blade. Use a carbide blade "designed" for wood. 40 tooth in a handheld, batten guided, 7-1/2" circular saw. 80 tooth for 10" table saw.  The cleanest cuts will be obtained by cutting the material to about 1/8" oversized with a saw and then truing the edge with a batten guided router - this also removes any micro-cracked material from the cut edge and will minimize sanding.

   I usually cut curves with a top bearing router bit and a template.

   >> What kind of glue/epoxy do I use to join pieces together?<<

   DuPont sells color matched epoxy for the different colors of Corian - somewhat pricey, but not terrible - especially since you got the Corian for free!  Applied with a caulk gun, special nozzle on the tube mixes the two parts as it dispenses. You will have to find a Corian distributor in your area to get it. Read the directions and you will be OK. Remove excess glue before it hardens with a single edged razor blade - save sanding.

   >>  I have heard something about heat being involved.<<

   You heard wrong. Although the epoxy does exotherm a bit while curing.

   >> Are special blades needed on a router to finish the edges?<<

   Any sharp, carbide router bit will work just fine. Pick your profile and go.

   Note on cutting / routing - the dust and cuttings go everywhere and seem to carry a static charge so they stick to everything - some form of dust collection at the source will be needed - can be as simple as a shop vac held near the cutter / saw - just catch it before it flies.  Dust mask is a good idea!

   >> What about polishing to a sheen?<<

   Corian is marked "this side down" - I have never tried to finish the bottom.  Start with 220 grit (unless there are major scratches that need to be removed) and work your way to progessively finer grits until you get the sheen you like - if you get too glossy (personal taste) just resand with the next coarser grit.   Sanding can be done by hand, random orbit or palm sander. Final hand sanding is done wet with water. Do not over sand the material - quit working with a given grit when the surface is uniformly scuffed - switch to finer grit. 

   To obtain a "glossy" finish I generally stop sanding at 400 grit, wet with water - by hand, on a rubber block. Have gone as far as 600 wet.  Turtle Wax Polishing compound (white, automotive store) will yield a slightly glossier finish. For wet sanding, I like 3M Wet-or-Dry paper.

   >>Can anyone help me?<<

   I tried.......

   Jim

1. 
   Hudson Valley Carpenter | Sep 10, 2010 12:25pm | #3

   Excellent post

   Jim,  That's the kind of answer that hooked me on BT, years ago.  Looks like, in spite of frustrations with the new board, I'm back for the long haul.   Dedicated, helpful craftsmen like you are what keep this place alive and running.

   Thanks, Peter

1. 
   JTC1 | Sep 10, 2010 04:19pm | #4

   Ya, never know

   .......what 2nailnhammer has to offer!

    ......frustrations with the new board, I'm back for the long haul......

   There were major losses - Pifin, IMERC, BillHartmann, Seeyou and some others hang at Dinos board "Breaktime Classic", but even the two forums combined don't seem to equal the old days here, many have just disappeared. The Tavern is especially dead. The "new" Wood Shed site is mostly shouting matches, but Brownbagg still stirs the pot with his own special brand of wit!

   Jim

2. 
   calvin | Sep 11, 2010 05:18pm | #5

   I'm back for the long haul

   Good to hear, will mean an even better cadre of answers.

3. 
   gfretwell | Sep 11, 2010 09:15pm | #7

   I had my best cuts with a 7.25" carbide blade in a 10" table saw. The narrow kerf was the trick I think.

3. 
   k1c | Sep 11, 2010 07:26pm | #6

   corian

   The epoxy must be fresh or it may have bonding problems.  The tube must have expiration date.  You can rent the dispenser gun from the material supplier.  There are also problems of epoxy not dispensing in equal measures.  Some say that it is best to have all work ready then squeeze out all of both parts.

   Check micro-surface.com for sanding paper if you can't find them at HD.  They sell them by sheets so you don't have to buy in packs.  I finished mine to semi gloss, sanding dry with 5" random orbit sander, and finishing with synthetic pad.

   I made a small vanity countertop.  2 showing sides were 5'x18" so I used 2 part epoxy from Lowes.  I used 30 minute set time epoxy because this was my first synthetic work.  This epoxy was beige and I have a thin beige line showing where materials were joined to make thicker edge.  Although I did save some money by not buying factory epoxy and not renting the dispenser, I would use factory color matched epoxy next time. Hope it helps.

1. 
   BIGABOW | Oct 20, 2010 12:38pm | #8

   CORIAN CUTTING

   HELLO FELLAS

   I am installing some used countertops and need to cut them down to fit my kitchen. I plan to cut the counters outside, and face doun to prevent "chiping" and "skinning" the face of the tops.

   I would like to know if the 40 tooth is best or does it make for a better cut with a 60 tooth carbide bit???

   I dont have a router just intend to sand my edges for smoothness and move on. The counter buts to walls and cabinets on all sides so I will caulk the corners and move on after sanding for unvisable cracks and chips.

1. 
   JTC1 | Oct 21, 2010 07:39am | #9

   40 tooth.....

   .....produces a good smooth cut.  Never tried a 60 tooth - don't have one.

   Since you asked, I assume you have a 60 tooth in possession.

   Being big on the emperical method, I would try the 60 tooth and see how the cut looked.

   Batten guiding and a smooth feed rate is probably more important than tooth count between these two choices.

   Jim