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Working with PVC trim (Azek)

cwc09 | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 11, 2008 01:02am

Any recommendations for a good patch for Azek (or any exterior pvc trim) nail holes. I’ve used “ready patch” in that past, the one in the black and orange can, but it didnt bond well and even fell out in some spots.

Also, any recommendations on caulk. I trimmed out my windows with Azek, which sit in brick openings, so I have a PVC/masonry transition that needs to be caulked. It will be painted also. 

Any info would be appreciated. Pictures are included if theres any confusion.

Thanks 

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  1. reinvent | Apr 11, 2008 02:43pm | #1

    This stuff is all made to work with PVC trim

    http://www.bondfill.com/

    1. cwc09 | Apr 12, 2008 01:14am | #7

      thanks for the info. Im familiar with OSI caulk so Ill probably go with that and some exterior spackle like the one guy mentioned.

  2. Fishrite | Apr 11, 2008 03:24pm | #2

     

    Our painters always used bondo.

     

     

    Not sure if I will ever get it right, but I will continue to roll that marble around my pea-brain until I figure it out.

     

  3. Catspaw | Apr 11, 2008 04:45pm | #3

    This product is much more user freindly than the two part products (like bond and fill):

    http://www.omegatekbp.com/vinlbond.html

    -Rich

  4. frammer52 | Apr 11, 2008 04:55pm | #4

    I have always used the OSI brand caulk.  The same as I use with vinyl siding.

  5. User avater
    DDay | Apr 11, 2008 05:14pm | #5

    http://www.trimbonder.com/

  6. jimmiem | Apr 11, 2008 08:51pm | #6

    I've used exterior spackle and gotten good results.  I replaced some exterior door pillasters with Azek and filled the screw holes with spackle.  Still looks good after 4 years.  I did corner trim boards the same way.  I used DAP elastomeric caulk. Good results. I didn't have to caulk to brick so I didn't check to see if the DAp was the right stuff to use.

  7. sledgehammer | Apr 12, 2008 02:06am | #8

    Lexel and a white crayola.

     

    Hope you left expansion room.

    1. cwc09 | Apr 12, 2008 12:59pm | #11

      Theres about an 1/8 of an inch for expansion between the brick and azek. However azek to azek joints are tight. I joined them with azek adhesive and pocket screws (kreg jig). I nailed the pieces as a single unit with a 15 ga. finish nailer. Still not a 100% sure how to plan for expansion. When I installed the Azek it was about 70 degrees out so I figured I had to worry more about shrinkage because the azek was probably already pretty relaxed and expanded due to the warm weather.

       

  8. Pelipeth | Apr 12, 2008 03:03am | #9

    Use a finish nailer with SS nails. Fill the holes flush with Crayola Crayon White and wipe off with a micro fiber towel. The holes will be invisible. Mask off the brick and the Azek and caulk with a quality product that is water soluable. This works great if you are NOT going to paint the Azek. If there's alot of nail filling you can buy the white crayons 1/2" dia. white only from some art supply companys.

    1. User avater
      DDay | Apr 12, 2008 03:28am | #10

      A crayon? Are you kidding? That is just plain stupid. Azek look like #### if you don't paint it and how is paint suppose to adhere to a wax crayon? Use a filler that is meant for exterior trim and don't use mickey mouse gimmicks.And YOU CANNOT USE A FINISH NAILER FOR PVC TRIM. With the exception of smaller pieces, you cannot use finish nails. Finish nails have little holding force and for rakes, fascia, etc. the 1x or 5/4 material moves a lot and will give you problems over the long term. If you use finish nails, you void the warranty and will have work to fix. Use the appropriate SS nail with a head and flush nail it. If you flush nail then theres no holes to fill.

      1. Pelipeth | Apr 12, 2008 02:25pm | #12

        I used to feel that way about all plastic. If you think AZEK looks bad what do you think of vinyl siding. or aluminum? I could go on, stuff with fake raised grain etc, etc. I would challenge any lay person to tell me which was Azek and which was painted wood. I work with the higher end of the food chain and when shown the choices and advantages of the PVC product they have ALWAYS taken PVC (exterior application). I have never painted the stuff, I sell that as one of the biggest advantages. I have also installed this product in No. NY caseing exterior doors and windows useing 15 gage finish nailer ss nails and have had no separation issues. And even you would have a problem finding the nail holes when covered (filled with the Mickey Mouse) crayon. My cabinet makers all use wax fillers. The Azek sheet goods are wonderful for soffitts an facia also,. 4x20. ALOT more attactive than vinyl and is there forever. I still will only use wood or masonary on the BODY of the house.

        1. User avater
          DDay | Apr 12, 2008 03:33pm | #13

          If they cannot tell the difference between wood and unpainted Azek, they are clueless. It is not very difficult to tell the difference. Once painted they are nearly identical but the Azek looks better. Using wax on interior clear finished cabinets is very different than using it on the exterior, especially when you should be painting the Azek.btw, vinyl siding is garbage.

      2. Fishrite | Apr 12, 2008 05:18pm | #14

         

        >>And YOU CANNOT USE A FINISH NAILER FOR PVC TRIM.<<

        Actually, you can.  As long as you screw off all of your scarf and butt joints into the framing.  Used to be an exterior trim carp with Azek being the only product we used.  Had the Azek factory reps visit our jobsite and they gave their approval...in writing.  Yep, in writing, from Azek.

        As well, when it came to 11 1/4 freize we would always reinforce with SS face-nailing.

        Anyway, Azek actually used some of our work in their advertising.  We had a few days of like five Azek people on our jobsite, plus all the "production people"...lol.

        As well, they came to photograph when we bent a piece of Azek for a catslide roof line.  It was pretty cool.  We had our HVAC guys build us an "oven".  Then we put a torpedo heater in one end and slid the 6" piece of Azek in.  We had the template all set to go...pretty funny to see a bunch of carpenters wearing ovenmitts, but it worked flawlessly.  It saved us a bunch of material because previously, they would just cut out the two scoops from a full sheet of Azek, rendering the rest of the sheet useless.

        Sorry, got the A thing going this morning (Actually, As well, Anyway)...lol

          

        Not sure if I will ever get it right, but I will continue to roll that marble around my pea-brain until I figure it out.

         

      3. sledgehammer | Apr 13, 2008 01:04am | #15

        If my customers want something other then white that gets painted, read in "Not Maintenence free".... I'll use Hardi.

         

        And you just might want to read Azek installation instructions and their warrenty before ranting about what is and isn't correct..... (-:3

        1. User avater
          DDay | Apr 13, 2008 05:50am | #16

          I've read it several times and if your using finish nails, you're not following it. You don't need to paint it but if you don't, it doesn't look that good. And the crayon's are just hack to me. If you want to be like that, hey, it's your choice.Hardi siding is good, the trim is junk.

          1. Pelipeth | Apr 13, 2008 11:43pm | #17

            For me putting up AZEK and painting it would be the same as putting on vinyl siding and painting that. Since I don't paint the AZEK I needed an invisible filler, trust me it bordered on FN genius to come up with the CRAYOLA crayon. I had tried at least 10 other fillers before, but never to my liking, this works, so I use it. Sorry.

          2. Bing187 | Apr 14, 2008 01:07am | #18

                      Don't apologize; I don't see the point of painting it either. If I have a job that needs a certain color trim,(and wood siding) I use primed fj cedar.....rot resistant enough for me and looks great all painted. If I have a job with white trim, I am open to azek, although I hate how unstable it is. I've used stainless 2-1/4" finish nails on all my rakes and fascia for prolly 6 or 8 years with azek, and I've yet to see a piece move, although I HAVE seen a homeowner fill a 1/8" gap, (that opened up after I put it up tight), and had a heat wave squeeze all the caulk out so it looks like a white worm stuck to the seam. Either way, when I have a job with trim where the nail holes are visible, I've used white phenoseal on the holes, wiped with a wet rag; I like your crayon idea a lot better.

            Bing

          3. Pelipeth | Apr 14, 2008 03:20am | #20

            A key word here is VISIBLE nail holes. I don't use it on 2nd story corner boards. I use it on front door caseings or other high traffic areas. I found that with other products most times the filled holes were concave and with caulk I ended up with flash marks around the hole, with the crayon it disappears wiped properly.

          4. frammer52 | Apr 14, 2008 03:48am | #21

            I have used it with sucess also.  Applied with trin nailors also, which minimizes the size fo holes.

          5. sledgehammer | Apr 14, 2008 01:08am | #19

            Perhaps it's what you call a finish gun nail and what I call one.

             

            I'd guess that having pictures of my hack work posted on Azeks website filled with a crayola does't carry any water with you....

            I'm shattered.... really... I am.

          6. User avater
            DDay | Apr 14, 2008 04:09am | #22

            If your cool with being a hack, fine with me. I guess the difference is I take pride in my work and would be embarrassed to say I used the method you used.

          7. frammer52 | Apr 14, 2008 04:18am | #23

            you are awful judgemental!  calm down.

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