Replies

1. 
   toast953 | Sep 13, 2003 08:52am | #1

   a trex deck, I did over a year ago, very little to very little movement. I used trexes, 2x8 for the top cap on the railing system, 4 mitered corners, I used liquid nail, and 3" deck screws, and those joints, still look sweet. I  used 1/4" hardboard for a spacer, the owners (great clients by the way) mentioned, next time they would rather have a touch larger gap, for debris will not do the self cleaning thing. As you already know that trex is a heavy beast, so be sure your deck joists design is healthy, I went 12" centers, with 5/4" stock, and you are probaly going to paint all your joist prior to installation. I gapped deck boards per factory specs. I used 6d finish (toenail) to temporary pin in place, snap a "wet " dry line to install screws.

1. 
   JSpeidell | Sep 15, 2003 06:57am | #2

   Thanks for your response 44.  Please explain the use of a "wet" dry line.  I am using the "saddle" (light brown) trex color.  I was thinking of using a Cabots solid oil stain on the top of the joist before installing the 5/4 decking since with 1/4" gaps (factory spec) you'll see the top of the joists.  There's no way to restain later though.  Thanks for your help.

1. 
   toast953 | Sep 16, 2003 07:46am | #4

   Jim, do this at your own risk, though with trex, I did not have any problems, ie wet dry line, I just take a dry line, masonry line, string , dip it in a bucket of water, snap once in the air, then once, or twice over your joists centers, then follow quickly, if it's warm outside, and predrill your screws, or whatever you want to do. Makes for cleans "straight" lines. What centers are you going with?? 12" I hope with 5/4 stock.   When I mentioned factory specs, I was referring to the butt joints only. The 1/4"  space was the space between the parrallel boards? Don't forget to have some fun with this one, leave the stress with yesterdays socks.         Jim J,, ps I  would not use the ol wet dry line with a wood deck material, it just might "stain"              

1. 
   jsvenson | Sep 16, 2003 01:55pm | #5

   What am I missing? Why wouldn't you just use a "dry" dry line?

   John Svenson, Builder, Remodeler, NE Ohio (Formerly posted as JRS)

1. 
   toast953 | Sep 17, 2003 08:47am | #6

   I don't know, never tried one, snaping that is. On redwood,  fir,  or any wood, I'll string a dry line, to use as a straight "edge".  With trex, I'll dip my dry line in water, snap in the air once or twice, and then once or twice over the joist centers. I'am a firm believer in whatever works for a person, who am I to say different, as long it gets the results I'am after. Unless I'am working for somebody else, I can go either way, I like to think I'am flexible, though I've been called stubborn a time or two. You all be safe out there, Jim J

2. 
   suntoad | Sep 17, 2003 09:35am | #7

   Follow the manufacturer's instructions...5/4 trex decking will do fine with joisting at 16" o.c. for perpendicular spans. The specs say for 45 degree spanning, drop down to 12" o.c.

   Trap-ease (composite) screws work great and do not need predrilling for the decking. As advertised--no mushrooming. Fascia usually does still require pre-drill and countersink.

   Trex is a great product and a joy to install. No splinters, no checks, all boards are uniform in size. BTW, I'm paying about $1.70/foot for 5/4 trex here (Alaska). What sort of pricing are you getting?

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Sep 15, 2003 06:20pm | #3

   I have found that the best way to fasten Trex is with deck screws specifically made for composite lumber, and it is necessary to predrill (PITA).  http://www.quikdrive.com/applications4.htm  I have tried standard deck screws, SS trim head screws, and nails, but none worked as well as the double thread pitch screws similar to what is pictured in the link I posted.

   Matt