I’m planning to build a 24′ x 34′ workshop this spring. I plan to use attic room type trusses with a 10/12 pitch. I’m also planning to use 10′ – 2×6 studs with 16″ centers. A local contractor suggested that I use 2×8 studs with 24″centers, thus being able to place the trusses (24″ centers, also) directly over the 2×8 ‘s. What do you think?
Thanks for your suggestions.
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Replies
Placing the studs @ 24" centers under the trusses in a garage probably doesn't hurt anything, but 2X8 studs is just overkill, IMO. 2 X 6 is perfectly adequate and will handle your insulation needs. Structurally, 2X4's would support the load unless you're going to be storing units of lumber or something. Even then, the span would probably fail before the walls did.
Jules Quaver for President 2004
by placing the studs 24" you will create loads of in wall storage an free up the entire floor space for working. also by going directly over the studs you should beable to eliminate one top plate ( metal bracket the corners)
Stay with the 16" centers on the walls.
Makes for a better wall system and if you are using a double top plate, is perfectly fine for whatever spacing the trusses may require.
FYI, the last attic trusses I set were speced at 19.2 centers.
Terry
Now, how in the world would a person lay out 19.2 " centers?
;-)
jwwhat the heck was I thinking?
Heck,
You need to purchase a special tape measure. You can usually get them from the truss company, or if using engineered wood, fromt the company that manufactures them. They are reasonably priced, usually about $40 for a 20', but they can be as expensive $100 if you want the 35' tape. They way to identify this type is ask for the "diamond tape". Remember, diamonds are expensive, which is the main reason these tapes are so expensive.
You must remember that this is not a regular tape and should not be used as such. In order to stretch that extra 3.2" out of regular spacing, all dimensions are therefore off also. For instance, 10" on the diamond tape is really 12". I suggest keeping one of each type of tape measures on each side, and clearly mark the stretched tape with a diamond symbol.
Hope this helps.Jon Blakemore
Whew!
Sounds complicated. (and expensive)Maybe it would be easier if I just stayed away from trusses and engineered lumber.
Or maybe this would work:Do my layouts on 16", and then bang things out a skoche + a fudge+2 bumps+a smidge and three average RCH's to an eyeball of 19.2" ?
I once saw one of those tapes you are speaking of, and I wondered what the diamonds were, but I was too shy to ask.
jwwhat the heck was I thinking?
Heck,
you're best bet is to make a story stick and mark it off at 19 1/5 inches. That way you can store the story stick for when ever you need it. bobl Volo Non Voleo Joe's BT Forum cheat sheet
*sigh*
Now where do I find a tape that has 5ths of an inch so I can mark a story stick? :-)what the heck was I thinking?
Here you go
http://www.artstuff.net/steel_pocket_rulers.htm
so just use your regular rule to get 19" then this to get you 1/5 the from there your regular rule for 19" etc till the story stick is as long as you want.bobl Volo Non Voleo Joe's BT Forum cheat sheet
Thanks, bobl...
I think I got it now...Put my floor joists on 16" centers with my fat max from the pouch on the right side.Frame my walls on 24" centers with my sears tape, in a pouch on the left side.Place my trusses on 19 1/5" centers,using the 26' story pole I made with a YARDstick from the lumberYARD and one of them fancy shirt pocket rules.I'm almost afraid to ask: Where do I stick the story pole?
jwwhat the heck was I thinking?
I aked Brian if I could tell you but the message was garbled, the only word I could understand is "banned".
I think he was talking about banning all your story sticks together, but I'm not sure.bobl Volo Non Voleo Joe's BT Forum cheat sheet
Sheesh! Why go to all that trouble!
Go down to HD, buy a cheap tape with the diamonds on it, mark out your story stick and throw the tape away! :).Jules Quaver for President 2004
the problem with the hd tapes is that the diamonds vary in distance by .01 inches. this will add up to a lot of variance in a long wall, so this way is better.bobl Volo Non Voleo Joe's BT Forum cheat sheet
Ah! That explains the sticking door in the last motel I stayed in. (I was in the second from last room and only a mile from HD).Jules Quaver for President 2004
Do my layouts on 16", and then bang things out a skoche + a fudge+2 bumps+a smidge and three average RCH's to an eyeball of 19.2"
Ok I know what the CH stands for, but whats the R?
Red.
I always thought that "r" stood for rumpled. Maybe it's a regional thing.
I only ever worked with normal, decent, God fearing men, mostly Republicans, and we never talked like that. I just found out about RCH a few months ago, right here on Breaktime. It was a shattering experience.
But the consensus here was r is for red.
>I only ever worked with normal, decent, God fearing men, mostly Republicans...
Actually, the R stands for Republican. :-)
jw
Edited for punctuation
what the heck was I thinking?
Edited 2/3/2003 11:31:03 AM ET by Heck
I a republican CH a different measurement then a democratic CH?
Dunno.
Ask Bob Walker.
:-)jwwhat the heck was I thinking?
Does that truss design constitute a scond floor? If it does, and the wall height is10 foot or greater, it changes therequirements for the load bearing walls below it.
Dave
A republican CH has never been kissed!!
TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
lol but a democratic CH doesnt even know the definiton of sexual relations
Check the tape in your tool belt,it's probably got the diamonds on it,now you know why....
Hi cutter, we're just having fun here.The question about the diamonds on tapes comes up so often that it has become a standing joke.Sometimes I just gotta joke along with the gang.
Welcome, join in.
jwwhat the heck was I thinking?
Glad to hear that you're using trusses. Remember that rule of thumb: "Trusses are the answer to all your problems" ..................(-:
While this doesn't address your central question, I did want to throw an idea or 2 your way. With a 10/12 roof, you don't have a ton of headroom to work with. The attachment below called "Truss A" shows a typical attic truss at that size.
You can get a bit more headroom by raising the heels of the truss, as shown in the attachment called "Truss B". You can gain more headroom by raising the heels more if you like.
If changing the pitch is an option, you could go with 12/12. That would give you a much better room to work with. (I didn't do a pic of that) But it would also make the building a fair amount more expensive.
.
On the wall issue - I can't imagine any reason to go with 2X8, unless you have some incredibly high snow loads. Going with 24" O.C. studs sounds like a good idea, though.
Why is a bra singular and panties plural?
I built a 24 X 40 "barn" with 10' sidewalls, 2X6 16" O.C. and used 12/12 pitch attic room trusses, 24" O.C. The trusses have a 24" heel" this gave me a 10' ceiling on the ground floor, and a 14' wide open floor in the attic, with about 8' head space in the center.
Outide, it's a 12' side wall barn. I love the look, the open space in the ground floor - no posts anywhere, the 10' high ceiling, huge storage area in the attic - including the area between the trusses which I floored over for all the boxes that get filled with stuff.
George
You may have already considered this before you settled on attic trusses, but scissor trusses can give you a much more open feel to the shop, but of course, you'd loose attic storage.
Thanks for the reply. I'm planning on 10' studs but I also intend to put down 2x6 sleepers to lay a plywood floor on to cover dust collecting pipes, some electric lines, etc. That should still give me a 9 1/2' ceiling and the attic room.
I thought of one other thing. If you think you might hang wood storage brackets on the walls, plan for the weight in your framing. The big ones can hold over a thousand pounds and could put quite a strain pulling the wall in. This needs to be considered in the framing so you don't pull your wall in.