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Yet another plaster question

OregonBob | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 9, 2004 06:13am

Another plaster question, and I’m not sure how to ask it so that you’ll understand what I’m saying…  I’ll give it a shot.

 

I’m doing an addition and hanging blue board on my ceiling.  On the interior walls that run parallel to the trusses, I’ve attached 2 x 6s on the top plate to back up the blue board.  I’m not nailing or screwing to these, as the board I hang on the wall will hold the ceiling up there.

 

Here’s my problem though…  when I get to the middle of the truss span, some of the bottom chords of the trusses are up to ¾ of an inch above the top plate of the interior walls.  If I screw the blue board tight to the trusses, it bows really badly because it gets stopped by the nailers I mention above.  If I don’t screw the board into the trusses closest to the walls, in some cases I have 30 inches or more between the last truss I screw into and the wall.  I’m using 5/8 blue board.

 

Any ideas?  I’ve never had to deal with this big a difference before.  I could fir out the bottom of the trusses, but if they settle over time, then I have the opposite problem.

 

Thanks!

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Replies

  1. xMikeSmith | Sep 09, 2004 06:15pm | #1

    you have to furr the ceiling to a flat plane ... one way or another

    Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

  2. Clay | Sep 09, 2004 10:26pm | #2

    Mike Smith is right on this.  I have found that a rotating laser level or (my favorite) the Gizmo, is a big help for this.  Scabbing 1x3's works quite efficiently.  I doubt your trusses will move much now.  Fir them flat.

  3. Mitremike | Sep 09, 2004 11:33pm | #3

    In my experience the way to go is to strap perpendiculiar and drop to the lowest point. generally speaking if trusses go anywhere they will lift . truss lift is something we in Mn. have to deal with because of the extreme temp difference between the roof chords and the ceiling joist brought on by the insulation covering the ceiling .. the effect is temp. and the movemcnt is small enough you may never notice. Good luck Mike

  4. User avater
    BossHog | Sep 10, 2004 12:15am | #4

    My first concern is WHY is there a 3/4" gap there ???

    Is the floor too low, the walls too short, or the roof trusses cambered way too much?

    Whatever you do, don't try to fasten the trusses down tightly to the walls. If the trusses wanna go up, they're gonna go up. A couple of nails aren't going to hold them.

    Experience varies directly with equipment ruined.

    1. Piffin | Sep 10, 2004 03:22am | #5

      Sounds like the truss plant allowed way to omuch for load settling. 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      1. User avater
        BossHog | Sep 10, 2004 04:41am | #6

        "Sounds like the truss plant allowed way too much for load settling."

        That was one of the options I threw out - Too much camber.

        But the other things are also possible - the floor isn't level, or the interior walls are too short. No way to tell 100% for sure without checking the job out personally.Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.

  5. dinothecarpenter | Sep 10, 2004 06:00am | #7

    Hello guys. It take us 20 plus years to come up with the solution.

    Find the lowest point of the trusses. Transfer this  point to the walls.( Laser helps). Measure 48"  from this point and draw your level line all the way across the room.

    What you have now is the (right start). Not only the installation on the walls it will be EZier but it will provide you with another (right start.)

    You have a place now to rest your furring materials and level your ceiling. We use 2x3 metal studs and nail them (sister them) to the ceiling beams.

    YCF Dino

  6. dinothecarpenter | Sep 10, 2004 03:05pm | #8

    Like MS said:

    you have to furr the ceiling to a flat plane ... one way or another

    YCF Dino

    1. User avater
      OregonBob | Sep 10, 2004 06:30pm | #9

      Great advice, everyone!  Thanks!

      I've checked the interior walls, and they are the right height.  The floor is level.  Four or five trusses have camber problems, and this is only a problem where the hallway goes right down the middle of the addition and the rooms on either side.  Do I wish my framers had noticed this?  yes.  Should I have noticed it before I started hanging board?  Yes.

      I had thought about sistering 1x3's to fur the trusses down, but the 1x3's and 1 x 4's we get around here are not much better than utility grade, and I would have to use a joiner on them or spend a half a day picking through to get a straight edge.  I like the idea of using metal studs sistered to the trusses, so that's what I'll do. 

      Thanks again.

      1. User avater
        BossHog | Sep 10, 2004 07:56pm | #10

        If you've got some trusses that are cambered too much, talk to the truss company about it.

        They may send someone out to fix the trusses at their expense. Or they may reimnurse you for whatever you ahve to do to fix them.

        At the very least, they need to know what their shop is turning out. If no one tells them, they'll never know.Q: What do you get when you cross Viagra with Rogaine?A: Don King.

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