Replies

1. 
   Shep | Jan 28, 2004 03:50am | #1

     I've used the water- based contact cement for at least 10 yrs. now with no problems. I buy whatever my laminate supplier carries ( usually Formica brand ). Buy new glue, the stuff does have a shelf life and you don't want any call backs just to save a few bucks.

2. 
   steve | Jan 29, 2004 03:36am | #2

   i use lepages latex and have for many years, no smell, no fire hazard

   takes longer to dry though than solvent based

   shelf life? no idea but i wouldnt risk it

   keep in mind that latex cement can not be frozen

   caulking is not a piece of trim

3. 
   geob21 | Jan 29, 2004 05:36am | #3

   Solvent based is the way to go.

   It's the only bit of happy time I get now that the boss drug tests.

4. 
   bobtim | Jan 29, 2004 05:39am | #4

   I seem to do a countertop or 2 a year, so take my advice accordingly.

   Never use water-based contact-cement, it sux.  I was burned badly 10 years ago ( p-lam all peeled) and swore off the stuff. Seems like all the regular cabinet  guys use solvent based glue.  I always get the glue at the p-lam distributer, not at a lumber yard.  Get the stuff that sez for pros only. Be sure to follow all directions and wear a resperator (sp) and turn off the pilot lights.

1. 
   steve | Jan 29, 2004 05:46am | #5

   soory, but like i said, i use latex stuff regularly like 2 or 3 tops a week for over 10 years

   never had a delamination problem

   i use postform grade laminate over particle board and it sticks like crazy, cant even peel a top even using a heat guncaulking is not a piece of trim

2. 
   noitall | Jan 29, 2004 09:21am | #6

   Most of the time the water based needs to be tapped for a positive bond. If you only role it lightly there is ( in my experience) a risk of a very week bond. I do about 3 a month without callback on the lamination of plastic. I did once try to use water based on a 10" window jamb extention veneer (1/16" thick) to turn pine into maple. It delaminated with air bubbles forming. But... I blame it on not getting all the old finish properly prepared to accept the glue. I probably should have primed it .

   I have even used the contact like a white glue for cabinet parts connections.(Malamine) Usually where White surface thouches a White surface to aid a couple of screws.

1. 
   steve | Jan 30, 2004 01:16am | #7

   i agree some what, i always roll my laminate out REALLY well with a J roller with maximum weight and yes its tiring and i usually tap the edged as well with a rubber mallet

   but ive never had a call back and have been using latex contact cement for over ten years

   critical things seem to be temperature, drying time and adequet pressure

   laminate at 65 f or above, allow the adhesive to dry really well, like clear and put lots of pressure on it when rolling

   i've seen huge bubbles under the laminate after lamination, disappear after installation and a little heat from a heat gun will ensure bondingcaulking is not a piece of trim

1. 
   woodguy99 | Jan 30, 2004 04:47am | #8

   From the one or two countertops a year category, I highly recommend spending the extra cash for spray cans.  Makes it easy to apply the stuff evenly.  Plus I got tired of always having barely used gallon cans laying around.