Replies

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Sep 09, 2008 03:41am | #1

   There is simply NO good way to flash the head of window/doors with T-111 siding.

   Moving the "Z" to above the trim just relocates the problem.
   Flanged windows have what amount's to a flashing already built into them.
   (Although windows that have a flange that have a"U" or "C" cross section are absolutely the worst choice in windows, The outside face to side and top corner should be just that , a sharp 90 deg corner.)

   Really no matter how many ways you analyze it the answer comes back to a good caulk job done with the best caulk you can afford.
   There just is no other solution.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/8/2008 8:43 pm by dovetail97128

1. 
   yojimbo2 | Sep 09, 2008 08:39pm | #2

   thanks for your reply. Yeah, this situation has always irked me to no end. With lap siding you can utilize z-bar, but not with t-111 like siding.It is usually not an issue when the window/door is protected by the elements, but as soon as you have massive exposure the wood moves and the caulk blows out and it all falls apart.I was thinking of using Azek pvc trim in those high exposure situations, but it does not come in 2x thickness.

1. 
   Clewless1 | Sep 10, 2008 04:13pm | #3

   re: the pvc .... still wouldn't matter ... the T1-11 will move ... got the same problem. How about removing the flange and roll the z flash up behind the T1-11? Still have the side, but getting warmer at the top ... then trim, etc.  Just thinkin' out loud ... maybe just flapping my gums.

2. 
   Luka | Sep 10, 2008 07:51pm | #4

   Cut a kerf in the t-111, right along the top of the trim.

   Go slightly longer than the top of the trim.

   Now, cut down from that kerf, to the top corners of the window. Straight up from the corner, NOT out at an angle to meet the outsides of the kerf.

   Now remove the piece of t-111 that you have just cut out.

   Install the z flashing under the t-111 at the top of the cutout, in that kerf. You'll have to work the flashing under the t-111, then sideways, into the legs of that kerf.

   Cut two pieces and overlap them in the middle, if you must. But caulk that overlap liberally, (The caulk is like PB&J, in a sammich. And the flashing is like the bread.), and overlap at least 6 inches.

   Now, caulk all around the inside edge of the sort of box you have created. A fat bead. Then put the cutout piece of t-111 back in.

   Caulk again, over the two seams at the sides of the cutout, once you have put it back in.

   Trim.

   Signed: Bubba Hussein Obama.
   

   What a fool believes he sees
   No wise man has the power, to reason away

   Click here for access to the Woodshed Tavern

1. 
   yojimbo2 | Sep 11, 2008 08:08am | #5

   hey thanks, I printed out your suggestion and will review at the job site.

1. 
   Luka | Sep 11, 2008 06:28pm | #6

   You are welcome.

   Signed: Bubba Hussein Obama.
   What a fool believes he sees
   No wise man has the power, to reason away

   Click here for access to the Woodshed Tavern

2. 
   yojimbo2 | Sep 12, 2008 05:32am | #8

   The trim is 1 1/2", so with the 5/8" siding that is 2 1/8", which is not available off the shelf in z-bar. Go figure. I am contacting a sheet metal guy to have some custom made.I am considering investing in a large size brake cause this sort of thing continues to pop up. I have to learn to solder galvy metal for this job.I think the flux is muratic acid, but I do not know what the solder material is. Is it the same as with copper?

3. 
   Jim_Allen | Sep 12, 2008 02:29am | #7

   Just slip the flashing under the t1-11.

   You'll need 1 1/2" flashing if the siding is 5/8". We used to do this all the time.

   If you need another flashing at the window, put the proper size there too.