Trim-Tex says to not use hot mud on their zip bead (“Tear Away L-Bead”). They want you to use regular. I don’t know who makes the strips I just bought but I’m in much too big of a hurry to mess with regular mud.
Any idea why they don’t want you using hot mud?
Also, has anyone had rust-through by using regular staples and not Monel?
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Replies
hot mud?
Hot mud - AKA setting joint compound.A powder that you mix with water and it set by chemcial reation and not drying. It is available in 15 minute to 90 times.DuraBond and EazySand to 2 common brands..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
A powder that you mix with water and it set by chemcial reation and not drying. It is available in 15 minute to 90 times.
Actually, it ranges from 5 minutes to 300 minutes, but 20, 45 and 90 are the most common.
I have no idea why they say not to use hot mud. Personally, I'd use a different bead as I always use hot mud for outside corners.
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Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Edited 6/5/2008 10:20 am by Ted W.
I called one of our big drywall suppliers a little bit ago and asked him about it. He had no idea why and said he's personally used hot mud on tear away bead without any trouble. He went and asked the manager who said the same thing.
I think when you use hot mud it is less durable than all purpose. The hot mud seems to be hard enough but maybe more prone to cracking if it is hit by something. Some corners in high traffic areas are hit frequently. I'm just speculating on thier reason.
I used to do hospital work and the outside corners were given a fair amount of attention because they were hit alot.
Maybe that is why they recomend not using hot mud.
Well, maybe I should have done this in the first place. I just called Trim-Tex and asked one of their field engineers what the problem with hot mud was. He said it's not a problem and you can use it for installation. The only issue they have with it is that it's more brittle and hence prone to cracking if it gets a whack.Problem solved. Areas for zip bead aren't likely to get hit. Outside corners that might get banged a lot should be using No-Coat corners instead of Trim-Tex stuff anyway.
My first choice for corners is either metal with paper or just metal. I like to set the corner in solid mud so it's not hollow, makes for about the most solid corners you'll get. But then, it takes more time to set the corner in mud. Not trying to steer your choice, but just adding my nickel's worth. --------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Check out the videos here. As I remember, one of them shows a guy whaling away with a ball bat on a No-Coat corner.http://www.no-coat.com/NO-COAT/ARCHITECTS/Products/NO-COAT_Videos/
Okay, I'm impressed. That's some pretty tough stuff.
Here's direct link to the video.
http://www.no-coat.com/.docs/pg/10389--------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
i definitely would recommend using Durabond rather than EasySand (or any ready mix joint compound) for the base coat on the beads
carpenter in transition
From what I've read, I'd agree. Never have used it though since I have to go a good ways to get it. None near by.