Three questions …
I’m considering using the Zip R-sheathing (1″ R6) system for a new addition. My framer has been using Zip System products on a lot of projects and recommended I look into it, so I’ve been reading comments and thinking about the pros/cons.
It is a 2×6 wall and the interior insulation is intended to be a minimum of 2″ closed cell foam which is a vapor barrier, and I called Huber and they said if I used their R-sheating it was no problem to spray CC foam against their board.
I conceptually like that there are fewer steps, as the spacer is now built into the sheathing and the taping looks straightforward, so it seems hard to screw up and easy to inspect.
I like the 1″ break in the thermal bridging of the framing, without having to do extra work to achieve it.
I’m in the Philadelphia area (zone 4, hot humid summer, cold winter) and am trying to think through long term resiliency and moisture problems. The exterior is a combination of stucco and 6″ stone and I would have a rainscreen gap.
This wall wont dry to the inside but should dry to the gap, and interior condensation should not be an issue with this insulation.
Am I missing anything – thoughts?
Secondly, I met the product rep and he showed me their liquid flash and stretch tape products. I’m not that comfortable doing windows this way (though for penetrations the liquid flash seems like a reasonable choice) but would like to know from any of you who are using this system how you are detailing your openings with the Zip Sheathing and what your experience has been, over what period of time?
Lastly, anyone want to tell me what they are paying for sheets in their area? I got some preliminary pricing from a lumberyard that made me pause, but they are often very high until challenged so the number may not be real.
Replies
im on the other side of zone 4, chattanooga, tn. prices here are $7 for 7/16 osb, $14.75ish for zip panels.
zip panels
thanks, is that the R6 panel or the plain, because you definitely were quoted much better pricing?
not insulated
i have never used the r-sheathing, this is for the plain ole' 7/16'' sheathing
zip panels
Ah, the ZIp R-System is quoted to me $4.75 more per panel then the plain, but you are still cheaper ... I'll have to look into that thanks!
quest #1
What is the balance (if any) of your 2x6 wall insualtion? What moisture do you expect to be drying from the wall (you say "this wall") to the [rainscreen air] gap?
question #2
We usually detail our zip panel window opening with cant strips, zip tape, and counter flashings. What should be uncomfortable about that? In fact, I believe Huber requires all all zip panel seams and edges to be sealed with zip tape or zip liquid flash tape for warranty purposes anyhow. Personally I prefer the tape. Easy to apply. Tenacious bond. Easy to keep in stock. I suppose if I had to flash a very irregular penetration (haven't yet) then I would consider buying the newer liquid flash option.
In my opinion, zip panels have been one of the most innovatinve framing material offerings since composite I-joists were introduced. I haven't used their newer radiant panel yet, but I think it's also a great idea to integrate-- if budget allows. If your customer can afford the upfront premium, then I believe their products can payback rather quickly over time in terms of added comfort, durablity, and energy savings. As a remodeler, I easily upsell it on those virtues.
zip system flashings
Normally I wrap the housewrap in and flash shingle style with a sloping pan.
It is the pan I'm most concerned about. The way the Huber rep explained it I'm eliminating housewrap & pan & some steps by using liquid flashing to seal my sill which makes my pan, going 2" past the wall panel and 6" up the jamb. I'm less concerned with the liquid flashing failing then with it been a pain to use and possibly not allowing water to run out as easy if it is not smooth.
Alternately, I can use the stretch tape for the sill but my concern is they are under constant tension so if the adhesive gives way after 5 years, they are going to be trying to pull back. Not that I really expect this to happen or cause a problem if it did, but I have a way I already use that is reliable, so my view has been if I have a system I know is working then I should be careful before changing, especially if there is no long term track record with other builders.
Understand that I'm not saying it won't work fine, but I wanted to know how others were flashing, for how long, and what issues they've seen.
regular zip tape pan
this has a tapered sill (cedar siding rip) and reg. zip tape pan. You may want to consider detailing like this. I've used this detail for over 5 years without any problems.
why do you stop so short up the jack studs? doesnt seem to me more than 1 1/2''-2''
This zip panel tape installation meets manufacturers warranty requirements and the photo is illustrative of my point in this thread. What is your concern?
concern?
the question is still why do you stop so short up the jambs? does not go up the jack studs more than 2''. 6'' should be the bare minimum.
Bare minimum according to whom? And for what reason?
So we are back to spelling things out for you huh?!?
http://www.huberwood.com/assets/user/library/ZIP_Sheathing_Install_Manual-2013.pdf
2. ZIP System tape may be used as pan flashing if installed in accordance with flanged window installation details posted on zipsystem.com. Other adhesive-based flashing tapes (must meet ICC-ES Acceptance Criteria for Flashing Materials (AC148)) may be used as pan flashing if installed per ASTM 2112-07. Apply the flashing to cover the bottom of the opening, overhanging onto the sheathing by at least 2" and extending a minimum of 6" up each jamb.
zip system
You missed a key point in the installation guideline.
I ZIP System - Window Installation
DI DISCLAIMER:
The following steps represent a general overview for the proper installation of window flashing. Please defer to/consult the installation instructions of your window manufacturer as well as code requirements in your jurisdiction for full installation detaials
You also missed the fact that the zip tape is installed over a sloped pan (not in guideline) and that the tape is running up the jamb with 2" overlap of panel for the entire height of jamb. YOu also missed the point that this installation meets Huber warranty specifications and my particualr window manufacturer warranty specification. Finally, you missed the exterior trim details that wood make covering the entire width of the jamb 6" high a redundant and moot point.
zip system flashings
This is similar to what I do though I add a backstop, but you didn't use their liquid flashing or the stretch tape it seems, which is what I was asking about as these are new products to me that the rep was promoting.
Huber does say to go up the jamb a minimum of 6" somewhere in the literature, I don't remember where.
I always do anyway because that was what I was taught and never questioned it, but I do wonder why it would matter as you'll never have that much water unless someone had sealed the sill and it couldn't get out.