Multi-Feature Curved Deck: Installing Railing Posts and Skirting
It’s all in the bracing for the posts and curved fascia.
The most solid railing post is one that is grounded on a pier and runs full length from the ground to the railing cap. However, most decks are cantilevered to minimize costly pier installation or, as in this case, to accommodate cylindrical levels. Simply bolting the post to the rim joist is adequate but will leave you with a post that is a bit spongy. Short of connecting a post to a pier, the surest route to a rock-solid post is to extend the post beneath the deck and brace it.
Positioning the posts is a challenge. You want even spacing while avoiding collision with joists. As you measure and mark, bear in mind that a variance of an inch or so will be all but invisible to the eye.
TIPBy installing the posts longer than you need them—letting them run wild a bit—plumbing and bracing them goes much easier. When all the posts are in place, you can mark and trim them at exactly the height you want. |
For a solid, attractive skirting, the designer of this deck opted to use vertical lengths of decking. Achieving a nicely cylindrical shape required careful shimming with composite shims and wedges. In addition, the cylindrical shape required arced bracing midway down and at grade. It takes a lot more work than adding a few sheets of PVC lattice but yields a handsome, substantial look.
3. Brace the post. While a helper double-checks the post for plumb, attach a 2×6 brace running from the post to the framing. This stiffens the post impressively.
4. Seal the joint. Placing the post against the blocking creates a potential “rot pocket.” Give the area a good shot of sealant to deflect moisture.
TIPBeveling the top edge of the post braces sheds moisture—another trick for avoiding areas of rot down the road. |
TIPThe 7-1/4-in. blade standard on most circular saws will cut only about 2-3/8 in. deep. By marking around three sides of the post and clamping on a cutting guide, you can make a smooth cut. The rail cap will cover any slight variation. |
9. Position the brace. Use a level to check that the brace is lined up with the deck framing.
10. Fasten the brace. Fasten the brace using 6-in. and 8-in. structural screws. Although the structural screws shown are self-tapping, predrilling in such a situation avoids splits.
17. Plumb the skirting. Use a level to confirm that all is plumb. You may need to slip shims or precut wedges of decking behind each piece before fastening to achieve a smooth curve.
Smooth Out ImperfectionsA grinder (far left) is a handy tool for smoothing out any protrusions that show up as you check for plumb. A belt sander (near left) works nearly as well. |
18. Fasten the middle of the skirting. Insert a spacer (a torpedo level works nicely), recheck for plumb along the front and one side of the skirting, and install two fasteners.
19. Complete the skirting. Work your way around the deck, stopping short of the area where stairs will be framed. The result is a long-lasting, good-looking skirt.
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