Damage-free Straightedge for Shingling
Use this tip to prevent unsightly nail holes in prefinished siding.
I’ve installed cedar shingle siding on many of my projects but most recently was an entire home that called for prestained white cedar shingles. In my research, I have found that most contractors including myself use a piece of strapping face nailed to the previous course of shingles for a straightedge. While this works great, you end up with a hole in your prefinished siding.
A fellow carpenter (@pneuhook IG) filled me in on a trade secret.
Stapled pieces of aluminum flashing to the back side of the straightedge will allow you to fasten the straightedge up-and-under the shingle course you are about to install. A few staples will hold the flashing strips to the sheathing, and I recommend stapling vertically for easy removal.
Run your shingle course like you normally would. Removal takes a few hits to the top of the straightedge. Add an “X” on the straightedge to locate exactly where to hit, which should be the same location as the flashing strips.
I’d love to hear what you guys have done to prevent unsightly nail holes, so leave a comment below.
@nsbuilders
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View Comments
I like it.
I end up using wood filler on my nail holes because I can't stand leaving the holes behind after removing the strapping. I honestly doubt water would penetrate a hole left behind by a maze nail but it drives me nuts looking at the hole. I'll definitely try your method next time with some coil stock.
Saving you time and that face nail. Good stuff, thanks
I screw two narrow strips of 3/4" plywood, about 24" long, at 90 degrees to my long straight edge. These are then screwed to the sheathing above my row of shingles. This whole arrangement is then unscrewed from the sheathing and raised for each new course. Shingles can easily be slipped in behind these 24" arms.
Vinyl siding... save the old growth northern temperate cedar forests... use petroleum based products, that have been dead for millions of years...
dchyatt has it right. Just make a T-square with some thin scrap wood and screw the vertical piece in at least longer than the top of the course you are installing. I'm doing this with 12' long hardi cement siding and doing it with no help. One end is held up by this spacer. It's so easy. The method used here is disposable eventually and faster. But leaves a staple of unknown length protruding out under the cedar. User....., your comment is trolling. Quit wasting our time.