Install Tile Backerboard
Follow these eight steps to install concrete-core backerboard or fiber-cement backerboard.
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There are two common types of tile backerboard, concrete core and fiber cement — installation is the same for both:
- Begin with a flat wall with studs spaced no more than 16-inches apart.
- Then, fir out all the studs to bring them in line the flange on the tub or shower base.
- Next, install blocking where horizontal seams will land — and place 1/4-in. spacers to create a gap between the base and the backerboard.
- To cut backerboard, score with a utility knife — and snap.
- Edges can be cleaned up with a drywall rasp.
- To fasten, use high quality 1-1/4-in. corrosion-resistant backerboard screws specifically designed for this application.
- Fasteners are installed no more than 8 in. apart — and kept 3/8 in. from the edges and 2 in. away from corners.
- Finally, use backerboard screws as spacers between panels to create an 1/8-in. expansion gap as you cut and fit the remaining panels.
View Comments
Why do you continue to prompt this outdated backing materials for tiled walls? I have replaced too many of these walls that have failed to ever recommend the products to anyone.
You would do all subscribers a favour by showing them how to use Schluter products: less weight, less mess and faster to install.
Regardless of what substrate you are using beneath tile, I use a vapor barrier between the backerboard and the framing members. Interior walls can be covered with plastic sheeting while outside walls, those that have insulation behind them should have tar paper. I make sure the bottom of the vapor barrier drains into the bath 1/4 inch below the top of the tub or shower enclosure.
if you have replaced hardibacker or durorock walls I am very surprised. They did not cover the next steps for prepping the cement boards for tile which includes the proper type of thinset and fibertape, as well as other, extra insurance against failure of the tile substrate install. That is not to say that Schluter is not a great product as well, but I have had great success with cement products over many many years. Its all in the prep. Also a proper mortar mix has a lot to do with the performance of the tile substrate as well.
To kuzan: I don't think the intent of this mastered in a minute was intended to be comprehensive. And you are right...there is a lot more to be said on the subject and good prep is vital.
To mdornheim: Good point. I do the same. It's good insurance.
To Gampy1: I think you may have been slipped too much of the Schluter Ditra Kool-aid. While the Ditra system is designed to be foolproof, a conscientious tile installer can install an equally if not more long term product with attention to detail (i.e. pre-slope below the pan, overlapping wall membrane, clear weep holes, etc.) Time will tell how Ditra installations fare but most installations using 'outdated' materials I've removed were style and taste motivated. Those removed due to failure using portland based materials amounted to some unrelated lack of attention to detail and had nothing to do with the products themselves. The last friend I trained to install tile says that he often gets called now because he DOESN'T use Ditra...that is, he knows how and takes care to pay attention to detail in his product. If you're wondering, I've been setting since '92. Hope this helps with perspective.
It would not hurt to have vapour between the studs and backerboard...makes sense. But, if one was to use backerboard, should one do a coating of cement over the entire surface and let it dry before applying the grout and tile, etc?
To me, a plastic vapor barrier behind the backboard makes no logical sense for two reasons: penetrations from screws, fixtures and niches, and if water does get back there, just where does it go?
I put #15 felt strips on the studs for a moisture break, install the backer board, then cover the surface with Redgard waterproofing. Any moisture that ever did get through would dry to the interior space and not hurt the framing. A continuous barrier on top of penetrations makes a lot more sense to me.
I like WEDI
I like your way of explaining the steps.