Adding a window to a balloon framed wall
1110d
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I have a non bearing gable wall that I want to add a window to. The wall construction is balloon framed and the new window will be on the second floor. Typically I’d put shoulder stud in between the header and the bottom plate. However, with balloon framing, there is no bottom plate. How do I support the header (2-2×4’s) in a manner the inspector will approve of?
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Simpson HH4
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These hangers are sure to satisfy the inspector.
I thought about them, but they won't work. A double header means the flanges of the hanger will be off the stud. I would need a special hanger with the flanges turned inwards. They exist, but it's a special order item with a long lead time.
Are you sure these won't work, they fasten to the king stud (in your case-the closest pair of studs in the wall) You need to oversize the header for the length (not that it makes a whole lot of diff. in that gable end)
Sorry, the pictures show up on my reply b/4 posting but don't when it comes up on the board. I'll try something else.
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HH Header Hangers
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For fast, accurate installation of door and window headers and other cross members. HH header hangers can speed up the job, strengthen the frame, and eliminate the need for trimmers.
Material: 16 gauge
Finish: Galvanized
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Use all specified fasteners. See General Notes. <!-- UNCOMMENT IF NEED SPECIAL NOTE GREY BOX
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Attachment to 2x studs will result in two round holes not being filled in the studs and load reductions as noted in table.
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For 3x posts, 16dx2 1/2" nails may be substituted with no reduction in load.
For SPF/HF lumber use 0.86 x DF/SP allowable loads.
NAILS: 10dx1 1/2= 0.148" dia. x 1¹⁄₂" long, 16dx2 1/2= 0.162" dia. x 2 1/2" long, 16d = 0.162" dia. x 3 1/2" long. See other nail sizes and information.
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The hanger is a bit different than the one that I was thinking of, but it still won't work. Balloon framing has lumber which is true to size. In other words, the hanger is 1/2" too small.
The correct hanger would be a concealed flange hanger, but they don't offer one for 2x4's. Guess I could step up to 2-2x6's, but the hanger will still be a special order.
1110d
Here's my take for what's it worth. Having worked on many homes of your type construction, I've seen many full bearing walls constructed w/no headers over openings. Your inspector should be the first one to ask about this application.
Your lumber is oversized for the hangers, the hangers are not undersized really. Plow out one side of your king studs to fit the hanger. Insta your conventional lumber header. Build out the face of it to flush your framing.
Do you have access to both sides of your wall?
In a pinch-ask the inspector if 1/4'' steel angle bolted to the king stud would appease him if the hanger won't work for you.
Honestly, you have a situaton ( if not super wide of an opening ) that probably wouldn't be a bad deal w/o a header.
Based on past conversations with the inspector, I know that he likes hangers. Actually, I believe his affection for them is beyond "likes". It might be bordering on fetish. Unfortinately, I don't have access to both sides of the wall. Based on comments by the inspector, if I wanted to use a steel angle, he would want some engineering on the bolts. He had also told me previously that my old growth fir studs are "ungraded" and that per the code would be classified as a grade #3 stud. In other words, in his eyes, because these studs were not graded they have no structural value. Basically, he's the stereotypical CYA, apply no common sense building inspector.
jee-zus
Wants 'bolt specs"? A pity you can't open up the wall somewhere else and ask him how in the hell it's still standing. Some of the older framing is remarkable in it's ability to stand straight and true over a hundred yrs. And this with minimal engineering.
Could you use the angle, and get enough info out or the Strongtie site for shear/pullout on some of their fasteners? Surely he could extrapolate the hangers ga. and fastener schedule for a beam that's holding a whole heck of a lot more than a window opening in a gable end.
You aren't vaulting the ceiling in that wall and installing a ridge beam are you?
Nope, it's just a simple 24"
Nope, it's just a simple 24" square window into a non bearing exterior wall. Seems so simple!
Install a "joist" below the
Install a "joist" below the stud, jack studs bearing on the "joist", then the header bearing on the jack studs. Or just bolt the jack studs to the existing studs.
Sorry, but I'm not following you. The joists are parallel to the wall, so I can't see a way to install a joist below the window.
Attack a couple of (single) joist hangers and drop a piece of lumber into them.
I recently built a new house. All my 'headers' for windows in non bearing gable end walls were flat 2x6. No load = no header required. Before you assume I had lax inspectors/BO, quite the contrary; I discussed it with them and they had no issues.
You shouldn't need a header in your situation. Maybe for really large windows, but not 'normal' ones.